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Routes in East Face

Birth Simulator T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chambered Nautilus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coral Bells Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daily Diatribe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deltoid Force T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leftoverture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost But Not Forgotten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MEGA S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mega Worthy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moral Bells Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oopsie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
PTFE T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Pump Up the Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raspberry Ripple T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strong Persuader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sweet and Low S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Teflon Technique T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Touch of Teflon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Worthy Whoopsie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: G.Kaplan & J.Garrett 8/12/07
Page Views: 8,017 total, 64/month
Shared By: glen kaplan on Aug 14, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Yes...this is a newly equipped and established line that 'finishes' someone's earlier efforts--therefore the FA may belong to them (sans bolts)--however, whoever they were probably followed weaknesses to the right, evidenced by two old and rusty pins. I didn't speak with anyone who really knows? The consensus was "???, yeah, I know that bolt your talking about...doesn't go anywhere...doesn't look worth it...haven't ever seen anyone over there...etc." (I've since talked to a few folks who have ventured around here and they've all said it wasn't really worthwhile, rotten and thin...kind of easy to get lost...)

This 'new' line is obvious and is very well-protected, travelling up through the blocky roof/overlap from the old existing bolt (bolt #2), to the smooth section above. Continue travelling up, past some loose looking but surprisingly solid ledges, and up, and up...

Thanx JG!

Location

15' left (south) of Coral Bells
10' right (north) of Whoopsy

Protection

13 bolts plus chain anchors (Watch the ends of your rope!!!)
Mega chossy at the top May 5, 2016
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Great for those trying to ease into roof pulls on lead. Nice 5.8+ moves to pull the roofs to an easy jaunt to the chains. not my favorite route in this area, primarily because it has a contrived feeling. However its a long sport route and has a nice view on top! Apr 24, 2015
Tara Hansen  
 
fun and long route! There were 2 bolts that were a little awkward to get to so I decided to run it out near the top. bring your 70m! May 28, 2014
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.8+
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.8+
Great addition to the area. 5.9 up to the roof, then eases to 5.7ish climbing the rest of the way. Amazing views, great length! Aug 25, 2013
Dashclimbsrocks
Orem, UT
Dashclimbsrocks   Orem, UT
Rule #1 if you use a 60m on this route, tie a freaking knot in the end of the rope. a 60m is just barely long enough.
Route is OVER protected. Should have ended three or 4 bolts early. Jun 2, 2013
OldManRiver
Cottonwood Heights, UT
OldManRiver   Cottonwood Heights, UT
60m 10.1mm rope was just long enough to not require down climbing Nov 5, 2012
John.Brimley
  5.9+
John.Brimley  
  5.9+
The first 4/5 bolts of this climb have some really interesting moves. Once you get over the roof the climbing drops to 5.5/5.6. Tie a knot in the end of your rope. Jun 30, 2011
Andrew May
Westminster, CO
 
Andrew May   Westminster, CO
 
Very fun route. Especially the first 8 bolts. Very well protected, and see's good shade in the afternoon.
Tie knots in the end of your rope before you rap! My newish 60m rope came up short by about 7 feet.

Whats the name of the route just to the left of this one? I dont think it was in the book... Jun 29, 2010
Mark Parrett
Salt Lake City, Utah
5.9-
Mark Parrett   Salt Lake City, Utah
5.9-
6/6/10 there are still plenty of very big loose blocks up top. Wear a helmet and be aware of what you're sending down! This is a good climb for the new leader - makes the gym look runout. Jun 7, 2010
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
  5.9
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
  5.9
I think the crux for me was getting past the bulge at the third clip. Finding good feet and thin crimps seemed to be key. The roof was slightly easier - very fun. The upper section was super juggy 5.easy, but still vertical enough to keep me happy. Solid 2 stars. Apr 24, 2010
Woodson
Park City, Ut.
  5.9
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
  5.9
This is a fun one..and has some good moves low followed by the good scenery of Stairs Gulch. I think I used 15 draws, so bring plenty of draws, and a 60 m will barely reach with some careful lowering, so be cautious of the rope ends. We used a 70 and were fine. May 17, 2009
notmyname
Sandy, UT
notmyname   Sandy, UT
Another great new route!
I highly reccomend that the anchors be lowered a couple feet. My 60m didn't quite make it and since it's such a popular area and 5.9 is such a popular grade, I can see bad things happening on a great climb. Luckily the fall would only be a couple feet, but still.... Apr 24, 2009
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.9-
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.9-
A great route for testing your 5.9 mettle. The upper section is purely for the view. Oct 3, 2008
Leroy Fielding
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Leroy Fielding   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Through bolt 7 - 2 stars, from bolt 7 to the top - -1 star. I felt the top blocky section really detracted from the lower part of the climb. However, the length of the route is a bonus considering the surrounding routes. Glad I did it once, and a good route for 5.8 leaders to jump on. May 26, 2008
Michael MacFadden  
  5.9
Not a bad route. It's pretty dirty in some spots, and the rock formation really seems to send falling rocks outward quite a ways. Take care in where you stand for the belay. Apr 29, 2008
It has come to my attention recently that this climb is very dangerous for people using a short rope...that people could easily rap off the end of the rope. If rapping from the anchors, I believe the rope reaches, especially if one trends toward the little ledge on Whoopsie. It probably is a 31m pitch. It seems everyone's ropes are different lengths than the actual manufacturers specs!
Please be aware that this is a "longer" sport climb. Plan on using a 70m rope or two ropes or extend the chain anchor with long slings if lowering and doing TRs.
If you really are rapping and using a 60m rope, I really doubt there is a need to rap off one bolt as was brought up as a concern to me recently. We climbed it with a 60m and with rope stretch reached the ground with no problem? Sep 29, 2007
Spinalflow
Sugarhouse , Utah
  5.9-
Spinalflow   Sugarhouse , Utah
  5.9-
This route should be renamed MEGA-FREAK!

First six bolts are nice ........ Top rope possibilities offer some more difficult options.

Thanks again! Sep 14, 2007
Talia
SLC, UT
Talia   SLC, UT
But Glen U R A FREAK!! Thanks for all the work you and your crew has done to area. Just climbed this one tonight and really enjoyed it. Couple of fun easy roofs to pull, Lots of climbing and great protection. Nice work and fun climb. Did a top belay, good place for a safety meeting. then rapped with 60 m. Sep 12, 2007
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
 
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
 
As of 9/10/07: Please, please, please wear a helmet and climb alert when doing this route. There are still plenty of lurkers (especially a little to the left when getting lowered and on the dirt ledges). Also, the roof/overlap corner has got some friable. All good, just be smart!

As to the "glen u r a freak" plaque...if you only knew :) Sep 12, 2007
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Fun route. Esp. the 1st 40 feet or so. We were fine with a 60m rope-about 5 feet left. Thanks for the work. Aug 31, 2007
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.9
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.9
This is a fun route that offers something lengthier than the typical Challenge Buttress fare. Although the 5.9 section is short, you are rewarded with fun and easy climbing above that earns you great views. Aug 25, 2007