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Routes in East Face

Birth Simulator T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chambered Nautilus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coral Bells Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daily Diatribe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deltoid Force T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leftoverture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost But Not Forgotten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MEGA S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mega Worthy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moral Bells Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oopsie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
PTFE T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Pump Up the Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raspberry Ripple T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strong Persuader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sweet and Low S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Teflon Technique T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Touch of Teflon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Worthy Whoopsie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tony Calderone 1992
Page Views: 3,734 total · 19/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 13, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The crack just right of the obvious arete, on the east face. A dirty ugly crack that deserves mention only to bring forth the fact that the ledge near the top contains enough unstable large rocks that your belayer down below needs a helmet or a lucky rabbit's foot. Be careful if you climb it.

Protection

1 bolt above the ledge near the top. Otherwise all natural including your anchors. Bring plenty of medium to large gear.

Photos

PeterSLenz
Salt Lake City
  5.6
PeterSLenz   Salt Lake City
  5.6
This pitch must have "cleaned up," since Nate's evaluation in 2001, and certainly since the publication of the Ruckman's guidebook. There is very little loose rock if you end at the Sweet and Low chains. The last few moves are on lichened rock, but did not detract from my enjoyment. I think this pitch is well worth doing. Jul 6, 2013
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
  5.6
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
  5.6
I climbed the full route today. For beginning trad leaders, it may be worth doing once, but I would strongly discourage going past Sweet and Low's chains - by the time you have made it this far, a crowd of families with small children will be haning out below sans helmets. The rock quality is VERY poor beyond the chains. There is a ledge with tons of loose rock and a single bolt. I climbed beyond this and found a good block up top that I slung for a rappel anchor. If you make the mistake of going this far, make sure you and your belayer have a good system for communication because the river and large ledge make verbal communication nearly impossible. May 15, 2010
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
"Practice clipping"?? You must mean the route "Sweet and Low". Are you referring to the climb in the corner (with no fixed gear and no bolts) or the bolted face just to the right of the corner? Jul 7, 2009
Nice climb for an easy lead, looks simpler from the bottom that it really is (but shoot, most climbs do!)with a few places without major positive holes. Still, a very nice lead for those looking for practice clipping and a scenic warm up for those with more experience. Jul 7, 2009
Stephen Colbert
utah
 
Stephen Colbert   utah
 
one of the majors finer efforts! kudos chippy Jul 2, 2007

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