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Routes in East Face

Birth Simulator T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chambered Nautilus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coral Bells Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daily Diatribe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deltoid Force T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leftoverture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost But Not Forgotten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MEGA S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mega Worthy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moral Bells Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oopsie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
PTFE T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Pump Up the Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raspberry Ripple T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strong Persuader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sweet and Low S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Teflon Technique T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Touch of Teflon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Worthy Whoopsie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Merill Bitter, et al, 1989
Page Views: 196 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This is one nice climb, only 2 stars due to its shortness. It is on the east face of Challenge Buttress, and it climbs a smooth bulging face with 1 bolt on it. It climbs the left of this face, not utilizing the bolt. It is smooth with a couple of horizontal cracks and a nice hole to hook your hands on. This climb will always draw me back year after year, along with it's neighbor Touch of Teflon.

Protection

2 chains atop the climb. As for the climb small tcu's would help and small nuts.

Photos

Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.10c R
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.10c R
I'm not clear on the exact location of this route, but it seems to start right under a bush growing out of the face and then moves up and right along a ledge to the chains. The 5.9 climbing was very short, and there it seemed easy enough to protect. The ledge above was easy. We set up a TR and climbed to the left of Touch of Teflon and it was really fun and probably more difficult. There is a hidden undercling next to a finger-sized dimple that distinguish this route. We smeared across the face on an arm traverse and mantled up to the thin face above. Way fun! Jun 16, 2006

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