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Routes in East Face

Birth Simulator T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chambered Nautilus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coral Bells Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daily Diatribe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deltoid Force T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leftoverture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost But Not Forgotten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MEGA S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mega Worthy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moral Bells Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oopsie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
PTFE T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Pump Up the Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raspberry Ripple T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strong Persuader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sweet and Low S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Teflon Technique T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Touch of Teflon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Worthy Whoopsie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass 1987
Page Views: 165 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This route climbs the east face, at a right-facing corner. It is north of the obvious arete by 20-30 feet. After the corner ends climb the face.

Protection

No fixed gear. Bring it all.

Photos

- No Photos -
Paul Wilhelmsen
sandy, ut
  5.9
Paul Wilhelmsen   sandy, ut
  5.9
Pulled a block the size of toaster out of the climb, and since I was being lowered held it all the way down. Nothing but gravity and spiderwebs was holding it in place, definitely a belayer-killer :(
I have a hard time giving any climb 1 star, basically cause I love almost every climb I do. But this climb only barely earned 2. Its got some tricky oddball moves that I didn't love, but hey, maybe its just not my kinda climb.

BETA Warning. Get out on the arete after you plug in the high cam in the dihedral (you cant miss it). Its a little committing but the feet on the arete are as good as it gets. Apr 5, 2014
A 2-bolt anchor has been added to this route. Shared with its 2 neighbors. Jun 13, 2006
Led this one today. It uses small nuts and cams down low and a couple of larger cams (#2 Camalot and above) can be used up high. The anchor is tricky to set up, as there is a lot of loose rock up top. Cams seemed really helpful up here, too. A good solid lead. Jun 6, 2006