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Routes in East Face

Birth Simulator T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chambered Nautilus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coral Bells Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daily Diatribe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deltoid Force T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leftoverture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost But Not Forgotten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MEGA S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mega Worthy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moral Bells Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oopsie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
PTFE T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Pump Up the Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raspberry Ripple T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strong Persuader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sweet and Low S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Teflon Technique T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Touch of Teflon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Worthy Whoopsie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Shane Willet, Mike Carnahan 1995
Page Views: 10,202 total, 58/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This climb is just right of the obvious "Coral Bells Arete". It climbs the north overhanging face. The roofs will tax you, but it is not as hard as it looks. My **** rating may be influenced by the fact that this was my 1st 5.10 and an onsight.

Protection

2 chains for the top. 7 draws for the climb. 1st bolt is kind of high and awkward. 1 runner.
Cassidy Thomas
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Cassidy Thomas   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Unfortunately I think it's a case of too little too late when it comes to the rap rings on the anchors. I think something should be placed up there fairly soon, even if its just a burley set of links. I didn't feel comfortable clipping into those rings when it came time for me to clean the route. Aug 24, 2016
Super Fluke
Earth
  5.10a/b
Super Fluke   Earth
  5.10a/b
Great Climb, well worth doing. First bolt a little precarious. Bolt 5, recommend a longer draw. Jun 28, 2015
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.10a
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.10a
Fun climb with a bit of everything as mentioned. Boulder-y start, thin flake, and a small roof. Beta has been given, nothing more to really add. Definitely worth doing, a great first lead for the aspiring 10a leader. Apr 18, 2014
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a
Great fun climb! Sidepulls make you think about your body movement, as they all seem to angle off in the wrong directions. Fun pulling the roof! Jul 18, 2012
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
Missing some red/white/black scarpa feroce shoes size 10. Last seen beneath chambered nautilus/coral bells arete...reward will be beer (or slurpee if you're LDS). shoot me an email please... Jun 1, 2012
grk10vq    
birth simulator .6 Apr 20, 2012
jimmy6  
Does the route just right of Chambered Nautilus, the crack in corner have a name and rating? Apr 20, 2012
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.10a
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.10a
This is a really well protected route. The first bolt is very high though, and the start is bouldery. A stick clip would be a good idea. Folks are right about the 3rd to last bolt needing to either be unclipped or use a long runner. There is also a really good rest, right before the roof. You could have a sandwich before heading over the roof... Sep 1, 2011
Andrewprime1 Arredondo
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10-
Andrewprime1 Arredondo   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10-
I climbed this a few weeks ago on my first day of outdoor lead climbing. It was an awesome route and I would really recommend it. Getting past the roof is def the scariest part, but it is actually pretty easy if you find the undercling and get your feet nice an high. Jun 6, 2011
Michael Buchanan
  5.10-
Michael Buchanan  
  5.10-
Big moves to big jugs and some sweet roofs. Sport wankin' in BCC couldn't get any better. Apr 27, 2010
Finn the Human
The Land of Ooo
 
Finn the Human   The Land of Ooo
 
Great climb, pulling the upper roof is definitely the crux. Go big, you're well protected! Aug 17, 2009
Great route! Some nice stemmy movements down below with great high steps. Balancy moves with side pulls that could go all the wrong ways without the right pivots. Lee Gitlin gave a nice bit of beta on this with that undercling being the key to unlock the roof, allowing the feet to get up high so you can clear it. The only downside to this route is it seems too short once you clear the roof. I wanted MORE! Jul 7, 2009
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
  5.10a
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
  5.10a
Fun climb. Akward moves getting to the 3rd bolt (this is my crux if not THE crux). Well it was akward when 5.10a/b was my limit...

+1 on not clipping the last bolt, forget the bolt and concentrate on finishing the roof! Jun 27, 2008
McRae Williams  
5.10a
Good sustained climbing. Definitely takes a little thinking out here and there. A good first 5.10 for sure. quality route. May 15, 2008
john richards
salt lake city UT
  5.10a
john richards   salt lake city UT
  5.10a
For a steady 5.10 climber this climb will seem pretty easy. Apr 21, 2008
Jared Hargrave
Salt Lake City, UT.
Jared Hargrave   Salt Lake City, UT.
Rather than use a runner on bolt 5, I simply unclipped it after clipping bolt 6 to avoid rope drag. The quickdraw was easy to reach with my left hand after clipping into bolt 6. Also felt that the roof was easier than the roof on Coral Bells Arete. Crazy? Jun 26, 2007
Awatubi
  5.10a
Awatubi  
  5.10a
The last bolt is awkward...if you look a few feet down and right from it you will see a bolt that has been chopped/sheared. This may have been the original (and much more logical) clip. Jun 21, 2004
Leroy Fielding
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Leroy Fielding   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Pretty fun route. I don't think the last bolt is necessary, it is an awkward/unnecessary clip, but nonetheless a fun route. Jun 14, 2004
Bring a runner for bolt 5. Jun 4, 2004
Lee Gitlin
  5.10a
Lee Gitlin  
  5.10a
Seven bolts long, this fantastic route has a little of everything. A bouldery beginning, some balance moves, laybacking off flakes, and a burly roof pull below the anchors. One hint: find the well-chalked undercling to unlock the roof sequence. Jun 3, 2004