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Routes in East Face

Birth Simulator T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chambered Nautilus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coral Bells Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daily Diatribe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deltoid Force T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leftoverture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost But Not Forgotten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MEGA S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mega Worthy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moral Bells Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oopsie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
PTFE T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Pump Up the Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raspberry Ripple T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strong Persuader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sweet and Low S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Teflon Technique T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Touch of Teflon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Worthy Whoopsie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Libby Ellis 1988
Page Views: 3,560 total, 20/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


88 Opinions

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Description

This is one of all time favorites. It is on the east face of Challenge. It is near the south end before the gully begins. When you get to the fork in the trail, look south and you can see a nice angling hand crack in an arete, just left of this is the face with 1 bolt. This climbs that face utilizing the bolt. It starts right of the bolt and after getting to the bolt it meanders left and then continues up. This is a balance game, pure and simple. How well can you pull up and then place toes in the same crack as your hand. Also you need to be able to stand up from this crouched position with no hands and continue up to find the spaced cracks. This is a wonderful but short climb. Again 3 stars would work but for the length.

Protection

2 chains atop the climb for a good top-rope. 1 bolt on the face. If you can make it to that bolt, bring a couple of small cams or nuts to protect the horizontal cracks the rest of the way.

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
The 10d rating is for the final moves. If you do the left foot high step with little for hands its at least 10d. If you go out right onto what's now the top of PTFE its considerably easier. Also going straight up to the bolt is much harder then the traverse in from the left (which seems more prudent on lead). May 12, 2017
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Very unique climb and a great addition to the challenge area circuit! A must do whether you go for the lead or TR. The horizontal cracks towards the top offer bomber holds and gear. As mentioned before this climb can take tons of cams, tricams, or nothing but the bolt, and crashpad. Certainly committing to do the latter, but not all that dangerous if you can establish yourself on the upper cracks without much struggle. Very easy to set a tr from Daily D. if it's out of your league, so check it out regardless! The highly sequential nature of the climb can make it seem significantly harder or easier, especially in regards to how you get to/leave the bolt. probably why someone thinks this clocks in closer to 9+ by BCC standards. I would say it's at least 10b if you have the sequence dialed, but can easily feel harder if you goof it up. Apr 24, 2015
Mike Marmar
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
Mike Marmar   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
This is a great lead. Good gear and good stances to place from. It can be entirely protected with tricams if that's your thing. Jun 11, 2014
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.10c/d
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.10c/d
I love thin, technical, slabby climbs, and this one is no exception. Went up and left after the bolt and it felt closer to the 10d rating, whereas up and right seemed easier. Very fun route. Apr 18, 2014
Paul Wilhelmsen
sandy, ut
  5.10d
Paul Wilhelmsen   sandy, ut
  5.10d
Guess I like to sew things up , but I placed the following gear in order from ground up.
1. Orange #3 metolious
2. 00 metolious
3. Bolt with long runner
4. .75 bd x4
5. Yellow #2 metolious
After the number 2 it's cruiser up to the anchors. Mar 21, 2014
John.Brimley  
 
This is an amazing climb. It feels like some high-ball bouldering without the danger. When we climbed this we TR'd it after going up Daily. This face is covered with interesting problems and is worth trying from a few different angles. It you want to work on edging and little crimpy ledges then you will love this face. Short and sweet. Also the belay is in the shade during the morning. Jun 10, 2011
This route is fun, definately worth doing!

The crux is low, before the bolt... feels more like a boulder problem. After that, mostly edging with some positive horizontals.

Small cams are the way to go for protecting this route (tricams could work too). Jun 9, 2010
Finn the Human
The Land of Ooo
  5.10b/c
Finn the Human   The Land of Ooo
  5.10b/c
Lots of fun, and not as intimidating as it first appears, once you know the moves. It's all there. Aug 17, 2009
Aimee Bates
  5.10b/c
Aimee Bates  
  5.10b/c
This is one of my favorite climbs. Thought provoking and balancy moves on thin egdes. Good place to work on footwork and grace : ) May 24, 2009
john richards
salt lake city UT
  5.10c/d
john richards   salt lake city UT
  5.10c/d
fun climb! short. All i did was put a #2 metolious master cam in a few feet above the bolt than walked it to the chains. feels more like a boulder problem. Apr 21, 2008
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
Didn't feel too difficult to me, but then, I only TRed it. Quite a few fun variations, you can start below to the left or right of the bolt, and head left or right above it. Jul 10, 2007
Polly  
don't let the 10d rating scare you away from this one. i don't feel that it is a true 10d based on other Big cottonwood climbs i've done. One of my all time favorite climbs though- maybe just a 5.9+. fun balancing moves all the way to the top. Crux for me was just after the bolt. Aug 6, 2006
That bolt is an old buttonhead, but fine. No need to panic!!! I whipped on it and I am 6'4, 255. A fine candidate for replacement, but not super sketchy. Sep 16, 2005
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
I think it would be a 3 star if it were just longer. Begins a little powerful and finishes on good jugs. Jul 12, 2005
I finally red-pointed this today. Gear recommendations: .75 Camalot, Purple DMM Micro-Cam, bolt, Metolius #3, Metolius #2. This route felt well protected with all this gear. Enjoy this lead. May 25, 2005