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Lateral Force
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in East Face
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Birth Simulator T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chambered Nautilus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Coral Bells Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Daily Diatribe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Deltoid Force T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lateral Force T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Leftoverture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost But Not Forgotten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Man of Leisure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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MEGA S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mega Worthy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Moral Bells Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Oopsie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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PTFE T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Pump Up the Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Raspberry Ripple T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Strong Persuader T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Sweet and Low S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Teflon Technique T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Touch of Teflon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Worthy Whoopsie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 40.62202, -111.74528 |
| FA: | Gary Olsen, Stuart Ruckman, Bret Ruckman, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 902 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | John Steiger on Jun 28, 2019 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Description
The Ruckmans in their 1998 guide gave this route an “R,” recommended RPs and TCUs, and gave it no stars. From the ground, the line looked to be but an intermittent seam, overhanging near it’s top, and endowed with an unusual amount of BCC chunk (choss, but bigger). Curiosity overcame common sense and, armed with all the latest micro-gear, I recently got on it and … it was mine-field scary, including yarding over a several hundred pound detached block (Gary, damn man, what did you have for breakfast that morning?). But the movement was really cool. Long story short, a half-day of cleaning has created one of the best 5.10 trad routes in the area with ample opportunities for pro. There will still be some relatively minor choss, but with just a little more love this’ll be as solid – and in my view as good – as Psychobabble.
So, the description: Climb the crack system just around the corner to the right of Deltoid Force. From crack's end, go straight up to hidden anchors (shared with Deltoid Force). The route faces north so rarely gets full sun.
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