The Ruckmans in their 1998 guide gave this route an “R,” recommended RPs and TCUs, and gave it no stars. From the ground, the line looked to be but an intermittent seam, overhanging near it’s top, and endowed with an unusual amount of BCC chunk (choss, but bigger). Curiosity overcame common sense and, armed with all the latest micro-gear, I recently got on it and … it was mine-field scary, including yarding over a several hundred pound detached block (Gary, damn man, what did you have for breakfast that morning?). But the movement was really cool. Long story short, a half-day of cleaning has created one of the best 5.10 trad routes in the area with ample opportunities for pro. There will still be some relatively minor choss, but with just a little more love this’ll be as solid – and in my view as good – as Psychobabble.
So, the description: Climb the crack system just around the corner to the right of Deltoid Force. From crack's end, go straight up to hidden anchors (shared with Deltoid Force). The route faces north so rarely gets full sun.
Healthy selection of micronuts (I was glad to have two sets, one of offsets) and nuts to finger-size, and cams to a No. 1 Camalot. Rappel (60m) back to the ledge from the anchors.