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Routes in East Face

Birth Simulator T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chambered Nautilus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coral Bells Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daily Diatribe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deltoid Force T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leftoverture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost But Not Forgotten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MEGA S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mega Worthy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moral Bells Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oopsie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
PTFE T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Pump Up the Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raspberry Ripple T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strong Persuader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sweet and Low S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Teflon Technique T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Touch of Teflon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Worthy Whoopsie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: James Garrett and Glen Kaplan, 13 August 2007
Page Views: 4,884 total, 39/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Aug 13, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


115 Opinions

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Description

Glen and I always felt that Contor and Taylor (FA of Coral Bells Arete) had cut that arete short. After replacement bolting that 20 year old line, we extended the pitch up. Clip the two-bolt belay and climb past two more bolts to the two bolt anchor. This makes for "more" of the Coral Bells Arete. The rock is excellent and required very little cleaning.
CBA was not altered or changed in any way. The old spinners were pulled out and replaced by Mike White and ASCA. Thanks again for teaching us the true craft of bolt removal.

Location

Climb Coral Bells Arete and keep on going for Moral Bells Arete. Rappel the route with one rope.

Protection

6 QDs from the ground and a nut or .4 Camalot for the gear placement on CBA.

Photos

Cassidy Thomas
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Cassidy Thomas   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The first couple times I climbed it I placed a blue BD stopper under the little shelf on the runout section. But I forgot my rack the other day and climbed it without any gear. I kind of noticed that by the time I placed the nut, the difficult section is pretty much over. Just keep your head for one more move and you have a bolt. Aug 27, 2016
Rob Stinogle  
 
You'll definitely want a small nut or cam to protect the runout section after the second bolt. We placed a Metolius 0, which worked great. Apr 11, 2016
rging
Salt Lake City, Ut
rging   Salt Lake City, Ut
I must have stepped on that loose rock and sent it and all its sharp sides toward my belayers head. He jumped out of the way after I yelled rock twice in rapid succession, almost pulling me off in the process. He was marveling at his survival skills while I was yelling at him to give me a little slack so I could finish, or at least clip the nearest bolt. Apr 30, 2013
Hendem
  5.8
Hendem  
  5.8
A fun climb, but in the upper section you can encounter a few loose rocks. Last night I almost pulled a rock about the size of a Rubix's cube lose. It still remains up there, waiting. Jun 15, 2012
celerystick
Riverton
celerystick   Riverton
I guess if you just want to do the first part of Coral Bells, set a bouldering pad. Otherwise, do the extension. If you want to boulder, there are much better places to go than here though. I think the point is to get a little elevation. It's the same grade, it's similar quality, why wouldn't you take a few more minutes? I liked it! The single best move is on Coral, but everything after that is still very good...all the way up Moral. Jun 6, 2011
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
  5.8
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
  5.8
Great route. Aside from the sweet starting crux, I thought the extension was the best part of the route. May 16, 2010
edwin  
I like the extension. The first time I got on this, surprised at how quickly I found myself at chains, I headed right and finished up the 10a. If the best part is getting to the second bolt, bring a pad. Or do you guys not have any because you don't topout boulders? Jun 24, 2009
Clip the first anchors, then get lowered.

The FA's had the right idea in mind... a great little route, with not a lot of extraneous bullsh!t.

Hell, the best part of the route is getting from the ground, up the arete to the second bolt! Dec 24, 2007
Couldn't agree with you more John. We just seem to like longer pitches, I guess. The original anchors are still in place and were not altered. I recently spoke with Gary Taylor after he had climbed "Moral". He liked the extension, but you are correct, the best moves probably remain down low. Sep 29, 2007
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
 
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
 
Sorry; did this yesterday and I am just not sure that it adds much to the climb. OK, but easy climbing with all the good stuff still below the original anchors. Just my opinion, I could be wrong..... Sep 26, 2007
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.8
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.8
This extension makes the arete a more enjoyable climb. Together, I give them three stars! *** Aug 25, 2007
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
yeah...the arete stops here!...now

extensions are good! all kinds of extensions... Aug 14, 2007