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Routes in East Face

Birth Simulator T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chambered Nautilus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coral Bells Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daily Diatribe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deltoid Force T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leftoverture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost But Not Forgotten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MEGA S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mega Worthy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moral Bells Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oopsie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
PTFE T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Pump Up the Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raspberry Ripple T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strong Persuader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sweet and Low S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Teflon Technique T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Touch of Teflon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Worthy Whoopsie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman & Gary Olsen, 1986
Page Views: 1,029 total, 8/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 22, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The route starts with a V2/V3 overhanging boulder problem past a bolt next to a fixed pin, and then climbs 5.9 face near the edge of a buttress (great position) to the stance. The belay is a rusted quarter-inch bolt with an old-style SMC hanger, fixed blade, and fixed nut, all tied together with slings. Someone with energy should remove the first fixed pin (the bolt next to it is bomber) and replace the stance with bolts and chains (may want to consider moving the stance to the top of the buttress). It is possible to avoid the boulder problem by starting higher in the gully to the right of the line and traversing left; this likely would make a two-star 5.9.

Location

Left of the Challenge Buttress proper, left of Touch of Teflon. Climb a ramp system on the left up to the upper tier. Route begins on a ledge.

Protection

In addition to draws, small to mid-size cams and a small assortment of nuts. Rap from stance.

Photos

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Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
I would say the rating is one of the most gratuitous sandbags around, even at V2/3 for the boulder problem. Aug 11, 2013