Avg: 2.6 from 106 votes
Routes in East Face
|Birth Simulator T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Chambered Nautilus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Coral Bells Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Daily Diatribe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Deltoid Force T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Leftoverture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Lost But Not Forgotten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|MEGA S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Mega Worthy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Moral Bells Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Oopsie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|PTFE T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13|
|Pump Up the Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Raspberry Ripple T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Strong Persuader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X|
|Sweet and Low S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Teflon Technique T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Touch of Teflon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Worthy Whoopsie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Sport, 185 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||G. Kaplan and J. Garrett|
|Page Views:||7,233 total, 57/month|
|Shared By:||glen kaplan on Jul 27, 2007|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionWorthwhile addition to the area circuit. Begin on typical quartzite past 3 bolts, then travel through some fractured lower angled rock to the upper smooth and steep shield. Careful about clipping bolt#6 as a fall with slack out could land you on the sloping ramp below. Pull the powerful final moves to the mantel/highstep and bolt#7. The TR anchors are a little hard to see (to the right) until you are on them (TR Variation is 5.9). Use 2-ft runners for best results!
Full Value Variation (5.11-) continues up to the left from bolt#7, past 4 more closely spaced clips through some steeper terrain to an awesome belay nook/ledge. Pitch 2 travels up low angle corner to loose step and gully before the final overhanging arete. 5 bolts worth of heel-hooking, knee bars, and laybacks up the steep but juggy arete see you to the top ledge and glue-in rap anchor (Or, it is enticing to climb easier terrain to the left of the arete and make reachy, blind clips to the right ~.8/.9 ish).
FYI: fun top-rope variation (Worthy Weakness, also 5.9) climbs the steeper/blocky arete about 6-ft. left of p1 to great move through roof to crack (this hasn't really been cleaned too well so...)
Location10 ft. to the right (north) of 'Daily Diatribe'
30 ft. to the left (south) of 'Coral Bells Arete'