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Routes in East Face

Birth Simulator T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chambered Nautilus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coral Bells Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daily Diatribe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deltoid Force T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leftoverture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost But Not Forgotten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MEGA S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mega Worthy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moral Bells Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oopsie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
PTFE T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Pump Up the Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raspberry Ripple T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strong Persuader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sweet and Low S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Teflon Technique T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Touch of Teflon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Worthy Whoopsie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 185 ft, 2 pitches
FA: G. Kaplan and J. Garrett
Page Views: 7,233 total, 57/month
Shared By: glen kaplan on Jul 27, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


106 Opinions

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Description

Worthwhile addition to the area circuit. Begin on typical quartzite past 3 bolts, then travel through some fractured lower angled rock to the upper smooth and steep shield. Careful about clipping bolt#6 as a fall with slack out could land you on the sloping ramp below. Pull the powerful final moves to the mantel/highstep and bolt#7. The TR anchors are a little hard to see (to the right) until you are on them (TR Variation is 5.9). Use 2-ft runners for best results!

Full Value Variation (5.11-) continues up to the left from bolt#7, past 4 more closely spaced clips through some steeper terrain to an awesome belay nook/ledge. Pitch 2 travels up low angle corner to loose step and gully before the final overhanging arete. 5 bolts worth of heel-hooking, knee bars, and laybacks up the steep but juggy arete see you to the top ledge and glue-in rap anchor (Or, it is enticing to climb easier terrain to the left of the arete and make reachy, blind clips to the right ~.8/.9 ish).

FYI: fun top-rope variation (Worthy Weakness, also 5.9) climbs the steeper/blocky arete about 6-ft. left of p1 to great move through roof to crack (this hasn't really been cleaned too well so...)

Location

10 ft. to the right (north) of 'Daily Diatribe'
30 ft. to the left (south) of 'Coral Bells Arete'




Protection

TR variation = 7 bolts to 2 chain anchor (on right)
Full Value variation = p1: 11 bolts to 2 bolt anchor p2: 6 bolts to glue-ins and rap anchor
Cassidy Thomas
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a
Cassidy Thomas   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a
The would say the first pitch is more 5.10a with a really awkward start. Nevertheless, I liked the first pitch, lead it onsight. I was following the second pitch. I believe I did the 5.11 version as described. Laying back off the arete, having some fun with heal hooks, and then moving right for the airy finish. Going straight up over the final bulge on lead would be exciting! Depending on how far your hand ventures around the arete I would say this could go anywhere between 10c and 11a. And keep in mind, you can make this route, especially the second pitch, as hard or as easy as you want. If you don't feel comfortable on 5.11, flip around the other side of the arete and climb a low angle 5.8. You have to double rappel, even with a 70 meter rope. From the top, my partner lowered me to the ground and then did the double rappel for himself.

Pitch 1: 5.10a with a tricky but doable start
Pitch 2: 5.8-5.11 depending on how you decide to climb it. Aug 27, 2016
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.10+
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.10+
Fun route, nice exposure. As stated, first bolt is tricky. Only did first pitch. Felt like 5.9+ to me.

EDIT - did second pitch today. Second pitch felt much easier than 5.11-. Maybe 5.10+. If you managed the first pitch, you will have no trouble with the second. Amazing view from the top. May 20, 2014
Dashclimbsrocks
Orem, UT
 
Dashclimbsrocks   Orem, UT
 
Wear a helmet if doing both pitches and be so careful if there are others at the crag. Tons of lose rock, could easily get knocked off and really hurt someone if you're not paying attention. Jun 2, 2013
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
I would agree with James about the first pitch which is all that I did on this. It is probably in 5.9+ or 5.10- territory. My friend, who had just climbed Hollow Man (5.9 around the corner)without any problems couldn't make it to the first bolt on top rope. I'm a pretty solid 5.9 leader and I had some trouble around the 5th or 6th bolt. I cheated to the right and did a really long reach to clip the bolt. I did it right on the second try on top rope without any problems though. The bottom is also a little hairy getting started, so I would recommend stick clipping if you are a only a 5.9 leader. It's a fun route for sure. Sep 19, 2011
James Garrett
  5.11a
James Garrett  
  5.11a
Are you THE Jim Logan? At any rate.....damned cool regardless, curious I guess.... Jul 9, 2010
James Logan  
 
This is a great two pitch climb. The first pitch is fun enough, but by far the highlight is the roof/arete 170 above your belay below. The exposure is great on the roof and it's one heck of lead for a 5.11-ish climber. This is one of my favorite climbs at CB, but you have to hit the second pitch!

P.S.
The 1st Pitch is NOT 5.9 by CB standards (unless you cheat right, it probably should be considered by most a 5.9+/5.10-). Granted, it might feel like a true 5.9 in other canyons, the 1st pitch cruxes are more difficult than any of the other 5.9s at CB so I see a lot of climbers in over their heads on this climb. In other words, like said above, you probably don't want to lead this one unless you are comfortable tackling 5.10s. This is especially true if you climb bolt to bolt (center of your body passing over the bolt). Jun 29, 2010
Finn the Human
The Land of Ooo
 
Finn the Human   The Land of Ooo
 
I did the first pitch a few times right after this route was set. I seem to remember there being a few odd clips (weight is shifted one way, the clip is an arm's length out the other way >.<), but nothing really bad. Sounds like a few of these issues may have been resolved, anyways.

It's a fun climb, just make sure you can lead before you try it :P Aug 17, 2009
Jeff Guest
Coalville, UT
  5.11
Jeff Guest   Coalville, UT
  5.11
The 1st pitch is 5.9, the 2nd pitch is 5.11 Jul 19, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11
Nice route with cool extended finish. Lacking prior knowledge and leading on a very skinny 9.2 cord I elected to belay my partner up at the top of P1 before venturing off to the second pitch (all 6 bolts of it). No way would he have heard me if I popped off and down the dihedral I'd go clanging away as he paid out the rope. Ultimately, he led through and pulled the finishin holds.

The route overall is cool and the extension a must do. Questionable if you could get down with a single 70m cord. We had a chopped 65 meter and there was no way... had to decend using the intermediate anchor. Jun 26, 2009
notmyname
Sandy, UT
 
notmyname   Sandy, UT
 
I really enjoyed the 1st pitch of this route! Awesome awesome line.
The 2nd pitch is incedibly fun, but incredibly contrived - which is fine since our entire sport is pretty contrived and stupid....as long as it's fun.
Be careful lowering/rappelling from the 2nd to the 1st pitch anchors - still some loose rock in the gully. Apr 24, 2009
JBONE
  5.11-
JBONE  
  5.11-
I did this climb the other day with the standard challenge buttress circuit. The first pitch is worthy, but the second pitch really forces the strength of the line. It looks cool, but is very contrived. Jun 25, 2008
Leroy Fielding
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Leroy Fielding   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Only did the TR variation, but definitely a good addition to the area. Fun route that grabs your attention right away and keeps you thinking the whole time. Good stuff. May 26, 2008
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
 
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Done is done...although there are still too many lurkers on or near the 2nd pitch for comfort...I will just have to make it up there at night or hopefully mid-week (there are people there every time I go...)

2nd pitch is great but it is certainly contrived...oh well...the harder moves are definitely in the e.z. .11 range and require committment to keeping it hard (i.e. it is real easy to just hike up left, over the arete and onto much easier terrain...)

James and I thought this was the best compromise as one could still (kinda) lead the route the easy way, via the low angle arete (left side) or follow the harder way (overhanging right side)...either way gives some unique moves and exposure and we only needed to bolt one line, not two that were real close together...
plus the belay ledges are sweet...

The rappel is pretty good but you need to be careful about looseness in gully...still.

WEAR A HELMET!!! Sep 18, 2007
James Garrett
  5.11a
James Garrett  
  5.11a
Glen's concern about the Red tag was completely ignored....it's all good. This area gets so much traffic, I am sure it was repeated innocently enough. I repeated both pitches on Whoopsie today and it felt pretty solid, but rapping the line takes you into the gully on the right (north) and this is quite loose in places. The first pitch is excellent and has been extended to a two bolt belay further up the arete. Then the second pitch gets even better and climbs the hard side of the arete (5.11a we think) to another two bolt belay on a great ledge. Glen and I have not been able to properly trundle the loose rocks in the gully as so many people climb here on a seemingly regular basis. This was Glen's project and find from the beginning and I thank him for bringing me on board, especially to be able to add this second pitch....pretty rare and pretty cool in BCC at Challenge Buttress.

So, I guess my message is...please wear a helmet here until it cleans up more and especially just walking around the base of the cliff...as people rappelling or lowering off Whoopsie or MEGA may knock some stuff off....we would hate to see or hear about somebody getting beaned. Thanks! Sep 16, 2007
zoso
 
zoso  
 
I've looked at this every time I've been in the area and wondered when someone would equip this. This route is a lot of fun and much more sustained than MEGA. Well engineered me thinks. Aug 31, 2007
James Garrett
  5.11a
James Garrett  
  5.11a
Now I feel like a real gumby, but Glen did reposition the lower bolts and added another one. I for one think it is all for the better? No need for a stick clip DoubleD. Aug 12, 2007
I just have to weigh in with the comments of 5.8 and 5.9 being a "beginner" route.
5.9 used to be it, add a plus if you knew it was really hard or funky. I don't see a point of putting a bolt too low either, unless you plan on stepping on it to get up to the "real" clip. Stick clip it if you need to, but what's the point of having a low clip that won't keep you from hitting the ground? ie. Dog Pile or Winkey & Waxman. Aug 12, 2007
James Garrett
  5.11a
James Garrett  
  5.11a
I agree, I even got scared getting to the first bolt clip and backed off and took the TR! This is most definitely NOT a route for the beginning 5.8 or 5.9 leader...sorry, Glen. Why rap drilled routes have to be bold, daring, and dangerous is beyond me. We should all be inspired by the moderate master guru of the 60 footers...Gregorio Martinez....now, he knows how to bolt a 5.8 route! Aug 7, 2007
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
  5.9
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
  5.9
Hey glen if we climbed this august 1's would talia and i have the 9th ascent? :) Definitely hard climbing at the first two bolts and then getting to the last one. I climbed it again on toprope and still felt like it had some 5.9 moves on it. Aug 2, 2007
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.9
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.9
The crux clips were placed weird for me. Felt just as hard as Hollow Man. The start is dicey, so a moderate leader may want a crash pad or a stick clip. Good rock and some good exposure. Aug 1, 2007