Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass 1987
Page Views: 157 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This climbs a right facing corner 30 feet before the obvious arete "Coral Bells Arete". When it reaches the right trending crack/overhang, it follows this until it ends, and then continues straight up the face.

Protection

Bring your gear as no fixed gear. The piton that Ruckman says is there, isn't.

Photos

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Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.10a
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.10a
Took a look at this route again, for a lead attempt. There is some serious fall potential on the crux move, because of the missing piton. About a 20-30 foot pendulum into a dihedral and you still may deck. I would feel "X" is more accurate at this point. Jun 6, 2006
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.10a
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.10a
A 2 bolt anchor has been added to this route. Shared with it's 2 neighbors. Also, the missing pin has been fixed with a bolt, after consulting with Gordon Douglas. It is still a runout route, just not a death route. Watch the dihedral swing. Jun 13, 2006
Dean Raynes
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Dean Raynes   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Climbed this one on TR today. This is a fun route that just needs some more love. I want to go back and get it on lead. Beware there is a loose rock before the bolt. Sep 10, 2010
Gabriel Tallent
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a PG13
Gabriel Tallent   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a PG13
A bolt has been added on the rightward traverse up the feature. You climb past that bolt a ways, traversing upwards with fantastic underclinging/smearing technical moves, then pull up over the feature and go several more moves before (I found) gear. All in all I think––maybe five or six unprotected, technical crux moves. I wish the whole climb went on that way, but then it dissolves into nearly the same broken face climbing as Raspberry Ripple. This thing is well worth doing if you feel confident on 5.10. Not a gym climb for sure.

Definitely not X, and while it doesn't feel warm and fuzzy, probably not even R. Jul 28, 2014