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Routes in East Face

Birth Simulator T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chambered Nautilus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coral Bells Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daily Diatribe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deltoid Force T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leftoverture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost But Not Forgotten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MEGA S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mega Worthy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moral Bells Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oopsie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
PTFE T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Pump Up the Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raspberry Ripple T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strong Persuader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sweet and Low S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Teflon Technique T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Touch of Teflon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Worthy Whoopsie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass 1987
Page Views: 1,414 total, 9/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on May 24, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This climbs the lichen-covered, broken, loose, rotten, and hard to protect face just left of Leftoverture. Run it out for 30 feet, and then start following whatever cracks seem worthy of your protection until you climb through the small roof band. Above this band there seemed to be some horizontal cracks worthy of protection, but by this time I had bailed left to the new route's anchors just right of Chambered Nautilus. I may try again on the day I want to die. Again, maybe a bit harsh, but I would definitely give this route two thumbs down.

Protection

Bring a prayer, because not much else protects this choss-pile. That might be a little strong, but this is one of the worst routes I have done in the Cottonwoods. A #5 Camalot (I don't have one) would protect the small roof. Other than that creative nutting and some small cams will help. A .75 Camalot was the only good piece I placed and it was my first at 30 feet off the ground. No anchors, so bring gear for make-your-own anchors.

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Rochelle S
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6
Rochelle S   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6
You can walk over from Sweet n low's chains with an extra rope to setup a top rope on these chains. With it setup as a top rope, I took the line of least resistance (slightly left of the tree), and wouldn't rate it about a 5.6. Jul 12, 2014
Tara Hansen  
 
I thought it was fun, I believe there are 2 bolts to 2 bolt anchors. I thought these were pretty necessary as it is difficult to protect ie I used 2 draws for the bolts then 2 small nuts. 1 at the bottom and the second in a crack hidden by grass. Very run out, but if you're a confident .10 climber you're good to go! May 28, 2014
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
I don't think so. I've always thought Strong Persuader was to the right of that tree at the base, and, very much closer to Leftoverture.

Been a work in progress over a season or two? Jun 11, 2010
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Susan, my bet is you did Sweet and Low. Bolted face? Just right of the semi chossy lookin' corner (Birth Simulater)? That's it.
Cheers! Jul 3, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
I didn't find this route to be dirty, rotten or loose. Or for that matter difficult to protect. To the contrary, it was a nice .8 which I wouldn't have normally gotten on aside from the crowds had much of the other lines occupied.

This route is located between Chambered Natilus and Leftoverture and is a face. Otherwise, the rest of the description doesn't much apply.

A handful of bolts protect this nice low angle line to a chain anchor.

Enjoy :) Jun 26, 2009