Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass 1987
Page Views: 1,732 total · 10/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on May 24, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This climbs the lichen-covered, broken, loose, rotten, and hard to protect face just left of Leftoverture. Run it out for 30 feet, and then start following whatever cracks seem worthy of your protection until you climb through the small roof band. Above this band there seemed to be some horizontal cracks worthy of protection, but by this time I had bailed left to the new route's anchors just right of Chambered Nautilus. I may try again on the day I want to die. Again, maybe a bit harsh, but I would definitely give this route two thumbs down.

Protection

Bring a prayer, because not much else protects this choss-pile. That might be a little strong, but this is one of the worst routes I have done in the Cottonwoods. A #5 Camalot (I don't have one) would protect the small roof. Other than that creative nutting and some small cams will help. A .75 Camalot was the only good piece I placed and it was my first at 30 feet off the ground. No anchors, so bring gear for make-your-own anchors.

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