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PTFE

5.9- PG13, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 21 votes
FA: Robert Price, Tracey Price, 2010
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Challenge Buttress > E Face

Description

Good rock, nice features, climbs well, a fun short route and a nice complement to Touch of Teflon. The protection was surprisingly good. I got in 7 pieces, twice in pairs. A couple pieces might not hold big falls and the gear placements require some work, hence the PG rating, but overall surprisingly straightforward.

Location

The rounded arete immediately right of Touch of Teflon. Start up the scoop just right of the arete. Finish as with Touch of Teflon.

Protection

Small cams and small to medium wires. One bigger cam protects the start.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian in SLC
Sandy, UT
 
[Hide Comment] RP, is this route left of Daily Diatribe?

Cheers! Nov 8, 2010
ddriver
SLC
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] That's right, er left. You done it? Nov 9, 2010
Brian in SLC
Sandy, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Nope. Like a bunch of folks, I looked at it and wondered...

Kudos! Looks great. Pic's, please! Nov 9, 2010
Daniel Winder
[Hide Comment] IMO, this route is more just a tr variation to Touch of Teflon Jul 16, 2011
ddriver
SLC
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Noticed the tr/variation comment, so I drew the line in on the existing photo for Touch of Teflon, etc. Point is there is an independent line that can be reasonably lead with gear and bolts are not warranted. Jun 25, 2012
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Nice find DD! Sure I did this years ago on TR but agree its a distinct route worthy of lead. I got seven pieces also but have to admit one was a purple TCU on Daily Diatribe. The alternative was one or two micro nuts to protect what I thought were the crux moves. Maybe next time I will be brave? May 12, 2017
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.9 X
[Hide Comment] PG? More like R/X. You'll likely deck if you fall off slabby insecure moves above the micro nuts in the flake. (which aren't all that good IMO) That gear is about 15 feet off the ground, 15 feet at least more to the next gear that's actually gear. Unless you consider a .1 on 2 lobes gear. I bailed to the 7. Good climbing but this really isn't protectable.

Edit: unless you're grabbing the 5.7 to the right no way this is 5.8 or 9- either Apr 19, 2019