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Routes in The Main Wall

"Con" Savage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
(I Just Want to Make a) Volcano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Blurry Eyes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bull Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bull run direct S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cracks to El Dorado, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dead rat tat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eco-Challenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Enabler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fireside Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Impressions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ginsu Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Global Warming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Green Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
Greenpeace T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hippy Bus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House Made of Dawn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I'm Still Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jet Set S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moldy Bolts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muffin Man, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nero's Fiddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remember Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Cool T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trusting the Rubber S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Tim Martel and Justin Preisendorfer 8/2000
Page Views: 723 total · 7/month
Shared By: M Sprague on May 10, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

from Preisendorfer - "The best line there in my opinion is Fireside a two pitch 5.10 that exits out the right side of cave. The best way to climb this route is to bivy in the cave and have your belayer drinking coffee in their bunny slippers while you climb up and left(sic) from the firering. As soon as you break out of the first roof you gain an amazing hand crack that you follow to the top. Watch for a OLD pin that was probably the bail anchor from the 1920's era exploration. I believe that Lincoln O'Brien and crew traversed in from the right to get there because I'm pretty sure he didn't crank out the roof!" See Preisendorfer's Topo #3 from the IME New Route Book

Location

The very right hand edge of the big overhangs on the right hand side of the Main Wall. Starts right of the fire ring.

Protection

Trad rack with lots of hand sized cams. Two raps with a single rope will get you down. There is a communal bolted rap/lower anchor up and a little to the right. Please use it and avoid topping out so the top of the cliff doesn't get beaten up. There is a lower anchor directly below, beneath the bulge, that will get you to the ground.

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