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Routes in The Main Wall

"Con" Savage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
(I Just Want to Make a) Volcano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Blurry Eyes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bull Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eco-Challenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fireside Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Impressions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ginsu Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Global Warming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Green Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
Greenpeace T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hippy Bus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House Made of Dawn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I'm Still Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jet Set S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moldy Bolts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muffin Man, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pocket Route (temp name), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remember Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Super Cool T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Sprague and Dmitriy Shirokov
Page Views: 1,771 total, 20/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 20, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Fun varied climbing on 2 pitches, with a great view. The first pitch starts about 25 feet right of a large yellowish brown , right facing corner with a roof. Step off the bent birch tree on to an easy slab and mantle up onto an angling rail to clip the first bolt (spot or stick clip) Continue up and left past 2 more bolts to a thin crux on a headwall (foot sequence) that gets you to the bottom right side of the "mattress" flake. Plug a cam under it and layback up the right side until you can plug another cam up under a small roof (sling), then reach left across the flake and escape up and left to a rail. Protect with gear, then step up and make a balancy clip that protects you moving off a cool pocket to a flake and more pockets. Belay at the 2 bolt anchor above the horizontal.

Head up and right (bolt) to gain a series of nice flakes that climb at moderate difficulty, but maintain their spicyness by their flexibility. Place your gear carefully and use runners to keep your rope from getting caught. Reach an overlap, clip a bolt and balance onto the slab by means of a razor sidepull. 2 more bolts protect the interesting slab moves to the anchor

Location

Located near the left end of the Main Wall, the first route right of the orange right facing corner. 3 bolts lead up a slab and face to a mattress sized flake under a small roof. Follow the directions under the route Blurry Eyes to get to this part of the cliff,

Protection

Pitch one: 4 bolts and gear up to #1 (red) Camalot. Use the #1 in a pocket just before the mid anchor.
Pitch 2: 4 bolts and small to mid cams. Use lots of shoulder length slings for the gear at the flakes. The marginal PG 13 is just to make note to be aware of possible expanding flakes when placing your gear on the second pitch.

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