Type: Trad, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Sprague, Amy Colbourn - early Sept 2017
Page Views: 387 total · 26/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 19, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

AKA who needs Wild Iris. Flakes, hand jamming and cool pockets P1 5.9+. Start as for Global Warming, up the flake, past two bolts and through the notch. Once established in the left corner above the notch, follow a short rail out left, sling your #4 and stick it in the slot above, step down and make the reach out left to the good horizontal. Clip the bolt above for your second and continue traversing left on the horizontal past the little trees and the bolted rap anchor, to the right facing corner of Fireside Crack and build a belay (using the bolt anchor will give you rope drag unless the belayer for the second pitch hangs really low and uses a directional to pull them to the left)

P2 5.10 Wiggle into the notch above and out left on the big flake a move, where you can then place gear to protect the balancy bolt clip above. Make a reach move with the right to a pocket beyond the bolt (crux). (Beta - Shorties can get a little more reach by stemming the foot out rt to a seam then bringing it back to the face for the move up to the more positive pockets)  Continue up the line of pockets (bolts) to gain the start of the luscious 5.9 handcrack that is eventually the top of Fireplace Crack.

Lower off the ramshorns out right, directly down to the mid rap anchors you passed before and you can belay your second from there. From the mid anchor a single 60 will get you to the ground.

Location

Right hand side of the cliff -borrows the start of Global Warming, which climbs the flake on the left edge of of Main Cliff Right (2 bolts and heads through the notch)

Protection

Set of cams to #4 Camalot, doubles .4 or .5 to 3.

Bring a few slings, tape for the back of the hands

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