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Routes in The Main Wall

"Con" Savage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
(I Just Want to Make a) Volcano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Blurry Eyes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bull Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cracks to El Dorado, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dead rat tat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eco-Challenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Enabler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fireside Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Impressions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ginsu Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Global Warming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Green Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
Greenpeace T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hippy Bus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House Made of Dawn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I'm Still Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jet Set S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moldy Bolts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muffin Man, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nero's Fiddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remember Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Super Cool T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mark Sprague, Guy Mathieu
Page Views: 170 total · 18/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 19, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description [Suggest Change]

From the left side of the lower face of Main Cliff Right scramble out right (pos gear) and clip a high bolt. I sling the glue-in directly and use a locker since I back clean any previous gear. Layback up the flaring crack (another bolt) and work out right and up the left facing flake/corner to gain the pumpy handcrack (crux)through the little roof to gain a stance at the base of the right of two parallel corners (ancient pin. Don't clip it) Continue up the easy corner until just before a pine tree, where you step into the corner to the left. Continue up to the big ledge and the bolted Volcano anchor and rap or do a second pitch.

Location [Suggest Change]

starts up on the left side of the lower face of Main Cliff Right like Global Warming but scramble further right on the little angling ledge (pos gear) to the next line with 2 bolts

Protection [Suggest Change]

2 bolts, set of cams up to #2 camalot with a couple extra around the .75 size. A couple med sized offset nuts were key for me in the layback crack above the 2 bolts

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M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Sort of cool. If the nice upper corners were steeper so the grade was more consistent, I'd give it another star, plus it is mildly contrived pulling the roof rather than going left. Sep 19, 2017

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