Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mark Sprague, Guy Mathieu
Page Views: 220 total · 15/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 19, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

From the left side of the lower face of Main Cliff Right scramble out right (pos gear) and clip a high bolt. I sling the glue-in directly and use a locker since I back clean any previous gear. Layback up the flaring crack (another bolt) and work out right and up the left facing flake/corner to gain the pumpy handcrack (crux)through the little roof to gain a stance at the base of the right of two parallel corners (ancient pin. Don't clip it) Continue up the easy corner until just before a pine tree, where you step into the corner to the left. Continue up to the big ledge and the bolted Volcano anchor and rap or do a second pitch.

Location

starts up on the left side of the lower face of Main Cliff Right like Global Warming but scramble further right on the little angling ledge (pos gear) to the next line with 2 bolts

Protection

2 bolts, set of cams up to #2 camalot with a couple extra around the .75 size. A couple med sized offset nuts were key for me in the layback crack above the 2 bolts

Photos

M Sprague
New England
  5.10
M Sprague   New England  
  5.10
Sort of cool. If the nice upper corners were steeper so the grade was more consistent, I'd give it another star, plus it is mildly contrived pulling the roof rather than going left. Sep 19, 2017