Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FFA Sam Bendroth 10/2017, bolted by Dave Powers & crew
Page Views: 779 total · 9/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 21, 2011 with updates from samuel von hammerstien
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Walking left from the approach trail about midway between the big roof area and Stewart's Crack is a right facing bolted seem/flake that heads up a very steep slab (the Porcelain Wall). Head up the seem to a difficult sequence to gain an undercling under the little roof and good layback holds to the right. Plug in a cam or two and do a reach out left to another good flake and cam placement. One more bolt protects the final crux and the final slab run, which luckily eases up as you get further away from it and head to the nice belay ledge with a two bolt anchor. This route is an interesting, technical and surprisingly burly climb, but it unfortunately suffers from seepage much of the time, hence Dave naming it Moldy Bolts while bemoaning the fact that it will rarely get climbed. If you see it dry and have the needed slab climbing skill, jump on it while you can.
First bolted ground up with some aid by David Powers , Randy Garcia and Matt Elliott 2010, it was lead free in 2017 by Sam Bendroth. Short climbers may find the lower crux reachy and a little burly at the grade

Location

In the middle of the Porcelain Wall, maybe 100' right of Stewart's Crack

Protection

Mostly bolts, with a few mid sized cams (fat fingers to fat hands ?) in between. There is a good modern 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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M Sprague
New England
  5.12a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12a
Dave scrubbed this line up last weekend, so I've bumped it up to 3 stars for those who like techy just off vertical climbing. It seemed hard to me for the grade, with the first crux getting to the overlap a little reachy and powerful. I wasn't seeing the upper slab crux. May 1, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Maybe 11+ then ?? May 1, 2012
Freed. The A0 can be removed. Oct 15, 2017
M Sprague
New England
  5.12a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12a
Sam, If you haven't checked it out already, you might want to look at a possible second pitch up and right. I rapped down it once years ago looking for the easiest way to the top from the ledge, thinking it might be ~5.9 from the ground. Haha, way harder, but I thought it had great potential. Oct 16, 2017
Hans LaCasse
Canaan, New Hampshire
Hans LaCasse   Canaan, New Hampshire
How steep is the porcelain wall ? Sep 24, 2018
M Sprague
New England
  5.12a
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12a
The cliff around here maybe starts around 60-70 degrees I'm guessing, then veers up to close to vertical, with some bulges here and there. Sep 24, 2018