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Routes in The Main Wall

"Con" Savage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
(I Just Want to Make a) Volcano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Blurry Eyes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bull Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cracks to El Dorado, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dead rat tat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eco-Challenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Enabler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fireside Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Impressions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ginsu Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Global Warming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Green Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
Greenpeace T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hippy Bus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House Made of Dawn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I'm Still Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jet Set S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moldy Bolts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muffin Man, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nero's Fiddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remember Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Super Cool T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FFA Sam Bendroth 10/2017, bolted by Dave Powers & crew
Page Views: 715 total · 9/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 21, 2011 with updates from samuel von hammerstien
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description [Suggest Change]

Walking left from the approach trail about midway between the big roof area and Stewart's Crack is a right facing bolted seem/flake that heads up a very steep slab (the Porcelain Wall). Head up the seem to a difficult sequence to gain an undercling under the little roof and good layback holds to the right. Plug in a cam or two and do a reach out left to another good flake and cam placement. One more bolt protects the final crux and the final slab run, which luckily eases up as you get further away from it and head to the nice belay ledge with a two bolt anchor. This route is an interesting, technical and surprisingly burly climb, but it unfortunately suffers from seepage much of the time, hence Dave naming it Moldy Bolts while bemoaning the fact that it will rarely get climbed. If you see it dry and have the needed slab climbing skill, jump on it while you can.
First bolted ground up with some aid by David Powers , Randy Garcia and Matt Elliott 2010, it was lead free in 2017 by Sam Bendroth. Short climbers may find the lower crux reachy and a little burly at the grade

Location [Suggest Change]

In the middle of the Porcelain Wall, maybe 100' right of Stewart's Crack

Protection [Suggest Change]

Mostly bolts, with a few mid sized cams (fat fingers to fat hands ?) in between. There is a good modern 2 bolt anchor.

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M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Dave scrubbed this line up last weekend, so I've bumped it up to 3 stars for those who like techy just off vertical climbing. It seemed hard to me for the grade, with the first crux getting to the overlap a little reachy and powerful. I wasn't seeing the upper slab crux. May 1, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Maybe 11+ then ?? May 1, 2012
Freed. The A0 can be removed. Oct 15, 2017
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Sam, If you haven't checked it out already, you might want to look at a possible second pitch up and right. I rapped down it once years ago looking for the easiest way to the top from the ledge, thinking it might be ~5.9 from the ground. Haha, way harder, but I thought it had great potential. Oct 16, 2017

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