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Routes in The Main Wall

"Con" Savage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
(I Just Want to Make a) Volcano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Blurry Eyes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bull Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eco-Challenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fireside Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Impressions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ginsu Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Global Warming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Green Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
Greenpeace T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hippy Bus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House Made of Dawn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I'm Still Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jet Set S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moldy Bolts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muffin Man, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pocket Route (temp name), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remember Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Super Cool T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Michael Hartrich and Matt Peer
Page Views: 1,452 total, 16/month
Shared By: M Sprague on May 4, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

About in the middle of the cliff, just right of Greenpeace, is a fun looking, sparsely bolted left leaning thin flake that goes part way up the wall. Layback and jam up the flake, trying to avoid getting too pumped. After the last bolt, look to escape right and up to the anchors; two new bolts with biners.

Justin Preisendorfer kindly sent this information: "Tim and I put 3 bolts in the flake by hand on the lead but didn't have the right size pins to leave an anchor. You can easily down climb to the right at easy fifth class to get off without leaving gear though it would be nice to have an anchor there. A couple years after we bolted that line I learned from Matt Peer that he and Hartrich had climbed it 20 years earlier. We talked about the bolts and decided to leave them because one fall on a cam would definitely blast the flake to bits. Hartrich has balls of steel."

Protection

a handful of bolts and standard rack, though you will only use a little bit of it. Two #4 Camalots are handy, but you can leap frog it after the first bolt if you have only one. Tread carefully on the flake.

There is a new c2010 bolted anchor at the top.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
a fun route. I would give it three stars if it was just a little longer. Look for footholds. There are more there than you might first notice Sep 9, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I agree that the anchors were warranted. Thanks for doing the job. Aug 23, 2010
Nice climbing on a fragile flake. Bolts are spaced with groundfall potential so bring a number 4 camalot for "mental" protection, just don't fall on it. I placed a two bolt anchor at the top because this route deserved more than a bushy 5.3 down climb. The previous belay was nuts in a poor flake. Aug 23, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
"Less slabby than it looks" - Just like all the rest of the cliff !! I got no idea Mark May 5, 2010