5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.4 from 14 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||Michael Hartrich and Matt Peer|
|Page Views:||2,598 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||M Sprague on May 4, 2010|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall|
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About in the middle of the cliff, just right of Greenpeace, is a fun looking, sparsely bolted left leaning thin flake that goes part way up the wall. Layback and jam up the flake, trying to avoid getting too pumped. After the last bolt, look to escape right and up to the anchors; two bolts with biners. (Have a good look at the anchor. Last I saw the bolts were getting loose)
Justin Preisendorfer kindly sent this information: "Tim and I put 3 bolts in the flake by hand on the lead but didn't have the right size pins to leave an anchor. You can easily down climb to the right at easy fifth class to get off without leaving gear though it would be nice to have an anchor there. A couple years after we bolted that line I learned from Matt Peer that he and Hartrich had climbed it 20 years earlier. We talked about the bolts and decided to leave them because one fall on a cam would definitely blast the flake to bits. Hartrich has balls of steel."
3 bolts and a small rack, #4 Camolot or two for between the bolts, but you don't really want to fall on them. Two #4 Camalots are handy, but you can leap frog it after the first bolt if you have only one. For above, a cam or two around #1 size Tread carefully on the flake.
There is a new c2010 bolted top anchor.