Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dmitriy Shirokov and Mark Sprague 9/5/2010
Page Views: 1,259 total · 13/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 9, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Named for the fact that it was early and I was still half asleep when we put it up. The original first pitch is short, about 30 feet, and likely overgrown at the start, heading up a thin crack to a ledge with a bolted anchor 5.10-. The protection starts with a couple thin wires, but gets better as you go. The more common way to start now is to work up the arete to the right (bolt), until you can pop left to the flake, then head up the hand crack formed by the disconnected, but wedged (hopefully) big flake 5.8. That takes you up to the same anchor. The second pitch is gorgeous slab climbing on super rock, with knobs and dimples with the occasional pocket or seam, with the crux overlap near the top. P2 is all bolt protected except for one cam placement in a slotted pocket before the overlap.

Location

Located on the far left side of the Main Wall. It is just left of an obvious large, dark brown and yellow (and likely green), right facing corner (The Gift) with a roof.
To get to the far left of the Main wall, when walking left past the Great Arch, about at the start of House Made of Dawn, follow a path out from the cliff a little bit and immediately take a right split, heading up the hill then hooking back to the cliff. This way will get you around the scramble and avoid eroding the thin soil on the slab gully after Green Party. The trail gets you back to the wall just before the corner. Tread lightly. Note- Some trees have pulled away from the slab, blocking the path. You now have to use your climbing skills and stem up the tree trunks and over the root ball then continue left.

Protection

Pitch one, original thin seam start - trad, small wires and cams to larger nuts and large finger sized cams.
The new start to the right - One bolt and some cams, but don't fall on them (Warning- The big flake will probably stay there for a very long time, but there is really very little rock that it is pivoting on at the bottom)
Pitch 2 - 1/2" SS rawl bolts and one cam in a slotted pocket, your choice, gray Camalot or a smaller one further back. Both anchors are 2 bolts with quicklinks. Get down with 2 raps down the route with a single 60m.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
  5.10
M Sprague   New England  
  5.10
The new alt. first pitch is about 5.8 and starts up the arete (one bolt) to the right, then pops left to gain the big flake and the hand crack. I think it is more aesthetic and easily protected than the thinner crack to the left. Sep 21, 2011