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Routes in The Main Wall

"Con" Savage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
(I Just Want to Make a) Volcano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Blurry Eyes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bull Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cracks to El Dorado, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dead rat tat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eco-Challenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Enabler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fireside Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Impressions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ginsu Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Global Warming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Green Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
Greenpeace T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hippy Bus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House Made of Dawn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I'm Still Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jet Set S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moldy Bolts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muffin Man, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nero's Fiddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remember Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Super Cool T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: lortie/strand 93
Page Views: 2,170 total · 18/month
Shared By: john strand on Jun 12, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

After the approach, the climbing is about equal. Super climbing on perfect rock. About the hardest F/A I've done. Way good steep slab climbing in a real remote setting. Way hard climbing up a steep dark slab, very sustained and sweet. If this was on Cathedral. no one would EVER do it.
Some beta;
decently tough climbing off the ground 11A past a bolt to a rest.Gear up in the small corner to your right and then move onto the slab. Hard and harder moves past bolts and then a big iron cross type move out right to a micro knob//crux stand up/ mantle to a rest. One more 5.11 section (bolt may be shady, i was gripped) and then the belay

Location

rap 90' from a pin/bolt anchor

Protection

Some small cams and bolts. Currently the bolts should be replaced, as they are old 5/16" buttonheads. Also, it is a bit far (understatement) to the first bolt and a possible gear placement before it is pretty crumbly (great rock the rest of the route), so be careful. It is well worth a rebolting.

Photos

john strand
southern colo
  5.12+
john strand   southern colo
  5.12+
In mark's photo- go up the black streak to a ledge. Then right into the corner and step into the business. Belay under the hang. Pretty forshortened Mar 14, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
This climb really needs to be completed. The features above just call out for a team of strong climbers. If the idea of a hard slab start doesn't appeal, there are easier and steeper, more featured ways in from the right. John has given assent to an upgrading of the anchors from the old pin/bolts. May 8, 2010
john strand
southern colo
  5.12+
john strand   southern colo
  5.12+
Have at it lads !!!! May 8, 2010
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Anyone know if this has been rebolted? Feb 19, 2014
john strand
southern colo
  5.12+
john strand   southern colo
  5.12+
i don't think so..Mark ? They are prolly still decent as no one has ripped one from falling off. it's kind of a pain to get in there and rebolt, but not TOO bad. Feb 19, 2014
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Nope. When out there bolting I have usually been by myself, so have not been into the idea of soloing up to the very high first bolt then aiding off the questionable buttonheads. To come in from the top requires a lot of rope and a big pendulum in since the anchors are protected by an overhang. The easiest safe way may now be to climb House Made of Dawn to the left and then traverse the sloping ledge with possible gear placements. You might be able to aid in from the closer Bullrun anchors to the right, but there is usually a wet band of slime in between (long stick clip?).
My personal opinion is that it needs a lower first bolt if people are ever regularly going to try it since the rotten little flake gear placement before it looks very dubious to me. The rest of the route looks well protected (once the bolts are replaced) If you slip getting to the first bolt you are looking at maybe a 35 foot steep slide down onto a series of stone steps. I'd give it another star for sure if it had another bolt. Feb 20, 2014
john strand
southern colo
  5.12+
john strand   southern colo
  5.12+
We must have been climbing pretty good then.. the first bolt was a retro job..climbed up to the ledge initially with out one...we never even saw the "dubious flake". Feb 20, 2014
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I am sure you were, John, since you climbed this thing at all. I'd be happy to TR it. It is a tough line. All that QQ training paid off. Feb 20, 2014

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