Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: lortie/strand 93
Page Views: 2,538 total · 17/month
Shared By: john strand on Jun 12, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

After the approach, the climbing is about equal. Super climbing on perfect rock. About the hardest F/A I've done. Way good steep slab climbing in a real remote setting. Way hard climbing up a steep dark slab, very sustained and sweet. If this was on Cathedral. no one would EVER do it.
Some beta;
decently tough climbing off the ground 11A past a bolt to a rest.Gear up in the small corner to your right and then move onto the slab. Hard and harder moves past bolts and then a big iron cross type move out right to a micro knob//crux stand up/ mantle to a rest. One more 5.11 section (bolt may be shady, i was gripped) and then the belay

Location

rap 90' from a pin/bolt anchor

Protection

Some small cams and bolts. Currently the bolts should be replaced, as they are old 5/16" buttonheads. Also, it is a bit far (understatement) to the first bolt and a possible gear placement before it is pretty crumbly (great rock the rest of the route), so be careful. It is well worth a rebolting.

Photos