Type: Trad, 225 ft (68 m), 3 pitches
FA: Mark Sprague, Ray Rice - Late Fall 2017
Page Views: 967 total · 19/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Dec 2, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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A rambling voyage, this route starts down on the wall right of the fire ring, then heads up and left across the wall above the overhangs connecting horizontal cracks and ledges to an airy finish. It gives you a good overview of this section of the cliff and also serves as the easiest and well protected access to other upper pitches, bypassing their more difficult starts . The first pitch is often wet through the notch in the spring, but if that is reasonable, the climbing above dries quickly.

P1. Start as for Global Warming , up the flake, past two bolts and through the notch. Once established in the left corner above the notch, follow a short rail out left, sling your #4 and stick it in the slot above, step down and make the reach out left to the good horizontal. Clip the bolt above for your second and continue traversing left on the horizontal, stepping above a couple trees to a bolted belay. 5.9+

P2. Continue left to the right facing corner of Fireplace Crack, up through the notch and continue angling left on the big crack/flake that turns into a ledge to another bolted anchor. 5.7?

P3. From the anchor continue walking left, clipping a couple bolts and head up the face on edges (crux, & another bolt). At the next horizontal move left towards the corner than up towards a small spruce tree above (remember to use slings to avoid rope drag). At the level of the tree break left again, embrace the crumbles, and head out the airy horizontal above the high roof, finishing at another bolted anchor. The last bit is a little grainy still but you are on good handholds that turn to buckets and you can soon put your whole arm in to get a shake if needed. Keep your feet pasted high where I scrubbed it more and they will stick better.

Because the route angles and the ground moves up below, you can rap from any of the anchors with a single 60m rope. Just make sure both ends are down! The rap from the 3rd pitch leaves little rope to spare.


Starts down on the right end of the cliff and moves up left, above the Fireside overhangs


Set of cams to #4. A #5  might be useful for sewing it up but not necessary, especially if you have doubles of the others, quick draws & handful of alpine draws. SS glue-in anchors, 3 glue-in bolts each on pitches 1 and 3