Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Main Wall

"Con" Savage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
(I Just Want to Make a) Volcano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Blurry Eyes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bull Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cracks to El Dorado, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dead rat tat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eco-Challenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Enabler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fireside Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Impressions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ginsu Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Global Warming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Green Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
Greenpeace T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hippy Bus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House Made of Dawn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I'm Still Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jet Set S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moldy Bolts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muffin Man, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nero's Fiddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remember Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Super Cool T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 225 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mark Sprague, Ray Rice - Late Fall 2017
Page Views: 163 total · 22/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Dec 2, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route starts down on the wall right of the fire ring, then heads up and left across the wall above the overhangs connecting horizontal cracks and ledges to an airy finish. It gives you a good overview of this section of the cliff and also serves as the easiest and well protected access to other upper pitches, bypassing their more difficult starts .

P1. Start as for Global Warming , up the flake, past two bolts and through the notch. Once established in the left corner above the notch, follow a short rail out left, sling your #4 and stick it in the slot above, step down and make the reach out left to the good horizontal. Clip the bolt above for your second and continue traversing left on the horizontal, stepping above a couple trees to a bolted belay. 5.9+

P2. Continue left to the right facing corner of Fireplace Crack, up through the notch and continue angling left on the big crack/flake that turns into a ledge to another bolted anchor. 5.7?

P3. From the anchor continue walking left, clipping a couple bolts and head up the face on edges (crux, & another bolt). At the next horizontal move left towards the corner than up towards a small spruce tree above (remember to use slings to avoid rope drag). At the level of the tree break left again out the airy horizontal above the high roof, finishing at another bolted anchor. The last bit is a little grainy still but you are on good handholds that turn to buckets and you can soon put your whole arm in to get a shake if needed.

Because the route angles and the ground moves up below, you can rap from any of the anchors with a single 60m rope. Just make sure both ends are down! The rap from the 3rd pitch leaves little rope to spare.

Location

Starts down on the right end of the cliff and moves up left, above the Fireside overhangs

Protection

Set of cams to #4. A #5 and 6 would be useful for sewing it up but not necessary, especially if you have doubles of the others, quick draws & handfull of alpine draws. SS glue-in anchors, 3 glue-in bolts each on pitches 1 and 3

Photos

0 Comments

More About The Enabler

Printer-Friendly