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Routes in The Main Wall

"Con" Savage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
(I Just Want to Make a) Volcano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Blurry Eyes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bull Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cracks to El Dorado, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Eco-Challenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Enabler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fireside Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Impressions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ginsu Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Global Warming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Green Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
Greenpeace T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hippy Bus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House Made of Dawn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I'm Still Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jet Set S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moldy Bolts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muffin Man, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nero's Fiddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remember Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Super Cool T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 111 total · 50/month
Shared By: LiamB on Jan 9, 2018
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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The Cracks to El Dorado follow an adventurous and occasionally silly line of cracks and ledges to the top of the main wall from the very left end of the giant roof. The first pitch has two starts both with thin and technical cruxes. The second pitch follows a bottomless crack suspended above the roofs to the top. While the first 75' are superb crack climbing, the remaining 50' holds some adventure and route finding challenges.

Left of the main roof systems where the cliffside trail jogs down again begins two separate crack systems, each a variation of the first pitch of the route. On the right is a series of changing corners moving left to a crawlable ledge about 40' up . This takes OK gear, mainly small cams and nuts. The other option starts 40' to the left on slab to gain a steeper well-rounded crack that heads up and right to a rest on aforementioned ledge. Both routes continue up passing a few bolts on some technical face climbing to reach a handcrack and 40' traverse to bolted anchor. 5.11+

Pitch 2: Traverse right from bolt anchor on some questionable blocks and make a bold reach into the bottomless crack over the roofs. Enjoy spectacular and featured crack climbing up and left to a great rest on a sloping ledge. Navigate up and right through broken cracks until a final traverse left ends at a bolt anchor and tree. 5.10


Gear to 3 ish.
bolt anchors.
two rappels with one 60m


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M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I think Ray ended up moving the first pitch (left version) some and giving it a seperate anchor. Should they have seperate headings? Jan 14, 2018

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