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Routes in The Main Wall

"Con" Savage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
(I Just Want to Make a) Volcano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Blurry Eyes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bull Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cracks to El Dorado, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dead rat tat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eco-Challenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Enabler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fireside Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Impressions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ginsu Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Global Warming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Green Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
Greenpeace T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hippy Bus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House Made of Dawn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I'm Still Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jet Set S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moldy Bolts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muffin Man, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nero's Fiddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remember Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Cool T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trusting the Rubber S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ray Rice and Liam Byrer
Page Views: 249 total · 30/month
Shared By: LiamB Byrer on Jan 9, 2018
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

The Cracks to El Dorado follow an adventurous line to the top of the main wall from the very left end of the giant roof. The first pitch has two starts both with thin and technical cruxes. The second pitch follows a bottomless crack suspended above the roofs to the top.

Left of the main roof systems where the cliff side trail jogs down again begins two separate crack systems, each a variation of the first pitch of the route.

P.1 A On the right is a series of changing corners moving left to a crawlable ledge about 40' up . This takes OK gear, mainly small cams and nuts, heading into a line of bolts, then 20' traversing right on a crack to two bolt anchor. 5.11 +

P.1 B Starting 30' to the left on steep slab, climb through edges and crimps to gain a right leaning crack that heads into an excellent bolt protected  and tehnical sequence.  Small cams and nuts are needed here. Continue up passing a few bolts on technical face climbing to reach a handcrack and 20' traverse to bolted anchor. 5.11+

Pitch 2: Traverse right from bolt anchor on some questionable blocks and make a bold reach into the bottomless crack over the roofs. Enjoy  featured crack climbing up and left to a great rest on a sloping ledge. Navigate up and right through broken cracks until a final traverse left ends at a bolt anchor and tree. 5.10

Two raps work with a 60m.

Protection

Small Cams to BD #3, possible doubles of .5 -2, and a healthy rack of nuts.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I think Ray ended up moving the first pitch (left version) some and giving it a seperate anchor. Should they have seperate headings? Jan 14, 2018
LiamB Byrer
North Conway, NH
  5.11+
LiamB Byrer   North Conway, NH
  5.11+
Mark- No. The description is accurate. Jun 4, 2018
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
OK, thanks. Jun 4, 2018
Fierce crimping through the bolts leads to wild and sustained trickery the rest of the way. It's all there up above, but it doesn't always feel like it... Great climbing. 4 days ago

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