Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: David Powers, Mark Sprague April 29, 2012
Page Views: 867 total · 11/month
Shared By: M Sprague on May 1, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The first slab approach pitch to Muffin Man is a quality climb by itself. Between Black Flies .. and Green Party (see the cliff topo mountainproject.com/v/10862… ) , step up to the start of a short left leaning flake, then step right and roughly follow the bolts up the quality slab to an anchor at a good stance below the big second pitch flake system. Be prepared to zig and zag some from the bolts for the easiest line. There is a thin crux about 1/3 of the way up that may seem desperate if your shoes are warm. It felt 11a when we climbed it in ideal conditions, but I remember it feeling much more insecure while bolting it in the Fall, so we are calling it 11b and await confirmation. Some of the footholds are micro, so temps will make all the difference. Dave on-sighted the FA. ..a really nice pitch if you like slab, and then the second pitch Muffin Man rears up and gets even better! Don't let the couple clumps of vegetation you weave by at the beginning put you off. The climbing is excellent.

Location

Walk to the climber's left along the base, past the Great Arch, until you get to the cairn indicating the trails to the left side and the Alcove. The bolts are above you, leading up the slab, with a second pitch steep flake system above.

You can lower or rap with a single 60m rope

Protection

10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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M Sprague
New England
  5.11b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11b
Note - There is now another bolted line between this and Black Flies, a Ray Rice project(closed) (second pitch is finished at 12d or so), the slab he thinks is some kind of 12 Sep 24, 2017