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Routes in The Main Wall

"Con" Savage T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
(I Just Want to Make a) Volcano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Blurry Eyes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bull Run T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cracks to El Dorado, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dead rat tat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eco-Challenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Enabler, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fireside Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Impressions T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gift, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ginsu Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Global Warming T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Party T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Green Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0
Greenpeace T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hippy Bus T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
House Made of Dawn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I'm Still Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jet Set S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Moldy Bolts T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Muffin Man, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nero's Fiddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remember Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stewart's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Super Cool T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, 195 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA with aid-Jamal Lee-Elkin, Tim Martel and Justin Preisendorfer, FFA- David Powers and Matt Elliott 8/20/2010
Page Views: 1,823 total · 18/month
Shared By: M Sprague on May 7, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Heading towards the left end of the Main Wall, maybe 50 feet past the cairn where the trail goes away from the cliff and heads up to the far left end, is an inviting second pitch stair stepping, left leaning flake system. The climb begins on a short easy 5.7 unprotected slab (to the right a little, near the moss is easiest) to gain a ledge, then a large flake system left of a small patch of pine trees. After passing the trees, diagonal up and right past a bolt, then back left along a thin arcing seam (5.9-) to some hand jamming and the first anchor. From the belay, clip the bolt to the left and do a long reach left with thin feet (or dyno) to reach a good hold at the base of the big flake. Follow the flake up (hand to fist sized cams) to a short bolt protected headwall (crux) to gain a ledge. Mantle up to gain anchors to the right. A single 60m rope will get you to the lower anchors and then the ground, or go all the way to the ground with doubles.

A cool looking potential third pitch awaits an ascent above and to the right, which will probably be harder. It has only been partially cleaned and will need some bolts. There is a big death flake that probably wouldn't survive a fall on gear behind it that should be trundled.


The left hand side of the main face, 50 feet past the cairn for the trail to the far left, before you have to 3rd class to go further along the cliff base. See the topo from Preisendorfer.

GPS: N44.03542 W71.40017


Both anchors are 1/2" SS Rawl bolts with quicklinks. Regular trad rack up to large fist sized. 1- 1/2" bolt on Pitch 1 and 3bolts on pitch 2, the top one placed by hand by the aiding party. Doubles of the mid to larger cams would be handy. A single 60m rope will get you down with 2 rappels.
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
This route is now a free climb. This Friday, Dave Powers and Matt ### took advantage of the recently placed new bolts and did a great onsight first ascent. The next day Randy Garcia and Matt ran up it again for the second free ascent, with Randy flashing the lead of the second pitch. Aug 23, 2010
S. Neoh  
Congrats, everyone.
Matt Mendoza? Aug 23, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
No. I didn't catch his last name. (...edit) Aug 23, 2010
S. Neoh  
Thanks and good luck, Mark.
Got to try to get Whitey out there. Aug 23, 2010
David Powers  
Matt Elliott is the name. Thanks again Mark for all the work you put into the place. Hope to see you there again next weekend. Aug 23, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
It needs another day of scrubbing below the first belay, then it will be worthy of a full 3 stars. ..some nice climbing and pretty classic features. Sep 1, 2011

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