Avg: 3 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 195 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||FA with aid-Jamal Lee-Elkin, Tim Martel and Justin Preisendorfer, FFA- David Powers and Matt Elliott 8/20/2010|
|Page Views:||1,749 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||M Sprague on May 7, 2010|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer|
DescriptionHeading towards the left end of the Main Wall, maybe 50 feet past the cairn where the trail goes away from the cliff and heads up to the far left end, is an inviting second pitch stair stepping, left leaning flake system. The climb begins on a short easy 5.7 unprotected slab (to the right a little, near the moss is easiest) to gain a ledge, then a large flake system left of a small patch of pine trees. After passing the trees, diagonal up and right past a bolt, then back left along a thin arcing seam (5.9-) to some hand jamming and the first anchor. From the belay, clip the bolt to the left and do a long reach left with thin feet (or dyno) to reach a good hold at the base of the big flake. Follow the flake up (hand to fist sized cams) to a short bolt protected headwall (crux) to gain a ledge. Mantle up to gain anchors to the right. A single 60m rope will get you to the lower anchors and then the ground, or go all the way to the ground with doubles.
A cool looking potential third pitch awaits an ascent above and to the right, That will probably be harder. It has only been partially cleaned and will need some bolts. There is a big death flake that probably wouldn't survive a fall on gear behind it that should be trundled.
LocationThe left hand side of the main face, 50 feet past the cairn for the trail to the far left, before you have to 3rd class to go further along the cliff base. See the topo from Preisendorfer.
GPS: N44.03542 W71.40017