Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Mark Sprauge, 8/04
Page Views: 1,145 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jeffrey LeCours on Mar 22, 2010
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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36 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Starting in a steep corner on flake jugs, wander upwards and eventually around the right side of the bulge above. Enjoyable moves continue through a fairly vegetated top half.

After a set of sunny days, this was one of the routes at this cliff that took longer to dry out.

Location

Protection

5 Bolts to LO

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
This is one of those routes with fun climbing if completely cleaned, but it ended up needing a lot more than I expected, so never really got finished. I would imagine it has grown back a lot too. It probably needs a new maddocking every other year where debris collects on it to stay in good form. It's slightly contrived at the top too, which makes it mediocre to me. What atracted me to the line was the steep juggy start.

I love Ward's description of it in the guidebook: "Beautiful eyebolts in steep moss" May 29, 2011
Julian Paul
New York, NY
 
Julian Paul   New York, NY
 
If you have a spare person, have them spot while your belayer stays anchored to the tree behind the route. There's a steep drop that could push them off the edge if you fall before the first clip. Sep 6, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
The route could use a little cleaning but it is nothing like the description in Ward's guide. I found this climb to have a fun crux start which is followed by rather uninteresting climbing to the eye bolt anchors. The ground at the base of this climb is almost always wet so the opening crux moves can feel rather slippery. Oct 28, 2012
Torie Kidd
NH
 
Torie Kidd   NH
 
Got on this yesterday. Fun start for sure. I found the middle of the route (around the bulge) required a little route finding to keep it at the grade. Staying right of the bolts instead of following them straight up the bulge felt about right.

Route didn't seem too dirty. Jul 3, 2016