Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 897 total · 6/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on May 21, 2007
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

This is a short route but it offers a bit of variety with some balancy, powerful movement. To start, pull onto the wall as the bottom is a small cave. Work up to a left hand undercling and then a right hand gaston. Work up the seem (avoid the barn door, clip from above the third bolt) and throw big to the left for a mediocre hold. Mantel up and then move back to the chains on the right. Beta is in the feet, there are a lot more options than you can see from the ground.

Location

On the left side of the crag, just around the corner that "Ill gotten Botty" climbs.

Protection

3 bolts to chains

Photos

Ramona Filipi
Medford, mA
  5.11c
Ramona Filipi   Medford, mA
  5.11c
Without giving away any beta, I didn't have to throw big to the left. I could do a mostly static move and then bump to the better part of the hold (and I'm 5'2" so I think anyone a bit taller could possibly even skip the bump). Oct 1, 2017