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Routes in The Crow's Nest

Calypso S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clambake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corvus B. TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crow's Nest, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dingy, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ill Gotten Booty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
J-boat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keel Hauled S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Keel-Ho S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land Ho! S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Mermaid, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mussels S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mutiny S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nantucket Sleigh Ride S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pee Wee's Big Adventure T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
S.O.S. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Saint Elmo's Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Scuttlebutt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sea Breeze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seasick S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Starboard Drift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trad's Nest, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Woman Overboard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Steve Johnson 10/97
Page Views: 170 total, 1/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 10, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Im rewriting this after finally figuring it out and sending.

The guidebook says hand jam. Even though im a decent crack climber i couldn't make that work. What worked for me was a series of brutal kneebars and laybacks for about 10 feet between the actual holds.

Climb the cracked corner until you can make moderate moves in to the groove. Decide if you are going to jam or kneebar then get to the business. This part is really strenuous and doesnt let up in difficulty till you are standing on top.

This route won't be for everyone but those who don't mind suffering will have a blast!

Location

Start in the corner a bit right of Ill Gotten Booty (5.9+).

Protection

6 or 7 bolts to lower off.
watch you dont get your leg around the rope while you are working the groove.

Photos

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lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
yeah, i was wishing i could wedge in the corner when i did it... the kneebar option worked fine but was super strenuous... May 28, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Just jam it. The layback kneebar way is for big guys like Stevie J and Lee. May 22, 2012
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
The layback does not seem to be the way to get this route. It felt a bit greasy and not at the best angle to get any purchase. This is really a thrutchy climb streight up the corner. Maybee I missed something on the layback though? May 21, 2012
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Gnar May 21, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
This thing is Soooo hard... i got SHUT DOWN again! Aug 18, 2009
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I have heard of people laybacking it as an altenative. Jun 11, 2008