Type: Sport
FA: Steve Johnson 10/97
Page Views: 317 total · 2/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 10, 2008
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Im rewriting this after finally figuring it out and sending.

The guidebook says hand jam. Even though im a decent crack climber i couldn't make that work. What worked for me was a series of brutal kneebars and laybacks for about 10 feet between the actual holds.

Climb the cracked corner until you can make moderate moves in to the groove. Decide if you are going to jam or kneebar then get to the business. This part is really strenuous and doesnt let up in difficulty till you are standing on top.

This route won't be for everyone but those who don't mind suffering will have a blast!

Location

Start in the corner a bit right of Ill Gotten Booty (5.9+).

Protection

6 or 7 bolts to lower off.
watch you dont get your leg around the rope while you are working the groove.

Photos