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Routes in The Crow's Nest

Calypso S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clambake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corvus B. TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crow's Nest, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dingy, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ill Gotten Booty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
J-boat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keel Hauled S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Keel-Ho S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land Ho! S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Mermaid, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mussels S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mutiny S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nantucket Sleigh Ride S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pee Wee's Big Adventure T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
S.O.S. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Saint Elmo's Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Scuttlebutt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sea Breeze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seasick S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Starboard Drift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trad's Nest, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Woman Overboard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ward Smith (5/97)
Page Views: 481 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tim J. on Apr 15, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Start part way up the gully below a small roof and slab. Awkward moves get you onto the slab and straightforward edges take you to the meat of the route. A brief moment of heroic thuggery gets you through the crux and back onto good holds. Trend right up the arete, still on good holds/jugs, to a tricky little sequence right below the anchors. Be sure to extend the fifth draw quite a long way or risk short, hard catches if you come off the top moves. Those on the plus side of the ape-index will have an easier time.

Location

The obvious arete above the left side of the gully between Walk the Plank and Crow's Nest's namesake.

Protection

6 bolts to quickclips. Stickclip recommended for the first bolt.

Photos

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Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12c
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12c
I went through the same process as Lee. This Spring, I could not find anything that would keep this at 12c. Lee confirmed that there is a sequence going a bit to the right that makes the route 12c. Thanks Lee, I sent it today (top rope). Not that hard after all if you are tall. Oct 7, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12c
Nice description. It gets the point across very well and I agree with it all.

The most intense section is pretty brief but the intro and outro sections are tough in their own right. I found the crux beta to be perplexing as well as powerful. A few years ago I had tried it and was unable to figure the beta, I ended up throwing my hands up and walking away... Today with good conditions and a little more energy I figured it out and pulled it off... Worth doing, It involved a lot of interesting tricks. Nov 1, 2016