Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ward Smith (5/97)
Page Views: 657 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tim J. on Apr 15, 2012
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Start part way up the gully below a small roof and slab. Awkward moves get you onto the slab and straightforward edges take you to the meat of the route. A brief moment of heroic thuggery gets you through the crux and back onto good holds. Trend right up the arete, still on good holds/jugs, to a tricky little sequence right below the anchors. Be sure to extend the fifth draw quite a long way or risk short, hard catches if you come off the top moves. Those on the plus side of the ape-index will have an easier time.

Location

The obvious arete above the left side of the gully between Walk the Plank and Crow's Nest's namesake.

Protection

6 bolts to quickclips. Stickclip recommended for the first bolt.

Photos

- No Photos -
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12c
Nice description. It gets the point across very well and I agree with it all.

The most intense section is pretty brief but the intro and outro sections are tough in their own right. I found the crux beta to be perplexing as well as powerful. A few years ago I had tried it and was unable to figure the beta, I ended up throwing my hands up and walking away... Today with good conditions and a little more energy I figured it out and pulled it off... Worth doing, It involved a lot of interesting tricks. Nov 1, 2016
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12c
Eric Leclerc   Montreal  
  5.12c
I went through the same process as Lee. This Spring, I could not find anything that would keep this at 12c. Lee confirmed that there is a sequence going a bit to the right that makes the route 12c. Thanks Lee, I sent it today (top rope). Not that hard after all if you are tall. Oct 7, 2017