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Routes in The Crow's Nest

Calypso S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clambake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corvus B. TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crow's Nest, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dingy, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ill Gotten Booty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
J-boat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keel Hauled S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Keel-Ho S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land Ho! S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Mermaid, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mussels S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mutiny S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nantucket Sleigh Ride S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pee Wee's Big Adventure T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
S.O.S. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Saint Elmo's Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Scuttlebutt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sea Breeze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seasick S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Starboard Drift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trad's Nest, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Woman Overboard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ward Smith (5/97)
Page Views: 504 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tim J. on Apr 15, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Start part way up the gully below a small roof and slab. Awkward moves get you onto the slab and straightforward edges take you to the meat of the route. A brief moment of heroic thuggery gets you through the crux and back onto good holds. Trend right up the arete, still on good holds/jugs, to a tricky little sequence right below the anchors. Be sure to extend the fifth draw quite a long way or risk short, hard catches if you come off the top moves. Those on the plus side of the ape-index will have an easier time.

Location

The obvious arete above the left side of the gully between Walk the Plank and Crow's Nest's namesake.

Protection

6 bolts to quickclips. Stickclip recommended for the first bolt.

Photos

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lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12c
Nice description. It gets the point across very well and I agree with it all.

The most intense section is pretty brief but the intro and outro sections are tough in their own right. I found the crux beta to be perplexing as well as powerful. A few years ago I had tried it and was unable to figure the beta, I ended up throwing my hands up and walking away... Today with good conditions and a little more energy I figured it out and pulled it off... Worth doing, It involved a lot of interesting tricks. Nov 1, 2016
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12c
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12c
I went through the same process as Lee. This Spring, I could not find anything that would keep this at 12c. Lee confirmed that there is a sequence going a bit to the right that makes the route 12c. Thanks Lee, I sent it today (top rope). Not that hard after all if you are tall. Oct 7, 2017

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