Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 1,133 total · 10/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on May 26, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

24 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details


In short, this route looks much easier from the ground, but the moves are challenging and surprisingly difficult to read, which is probably what made it both interesting and enjoyable.

Stick clip the first bolt if you're not feeling too confident and follow jugs for a couple of moves until a short bulge is in your face. Luckily, the crux comes early, which is getting from the 2nd bolt to the 3rd on crimps and flakes. Easier climbing follows up to the next bolt, then comes a fun exit to the anchors involving your choice of stemming, laybacking, mantling, or lunging.


Scramble up the gully separating the main wall from the rest of this crag. This route starts just right of the two trees.


4 bolts to anchor - stickclip recommended


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Derek Jf
Derek Jf   Northeast
This route deserves more traffic. The odd-looking middle section and awesome wide-stemming finish are great! Well worth getting on & wrestling with the start crux to get to the rest of this awesome line. Jun 24, 2014
Really fun climb. The beginning reminded me of huge feature boulder problems that are typically seen at bouldering comps. I wish there was another bolt between the third and fourth would be nice. It's a solid 10 feet in between, and I'm not sure how safe the fall is @_@ Jul 14, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Chris is planning on changing the bolts a bit. We were on it the other day and he marked where he wants them. Jul 14, 2014
Eli .
Eli .   GMC3500
This route is wonderful! This route is sustained at the grade, and climbs very well. many rests and cruxes requiring different techniques. The view at the top is great! Oct 12, 2015
Andrew Hewitt
Andrew Hewitt   Somerville
Good route that is a bit of a change of pace from the rest of the routes at Crow's Nest. Excellent opening moves and challenging crux that requires lots of technique.

I don't think the bolts have been updated b/c it is still a bit sporty as far as Rumney goes. Don't blow the 3rd clip or you're going for a potentially painful ride.

The top stemming is amazing! Sep 18, 2016
Torie Kidd
Torie Kidd   NH
Really enjoyed this one. I wish it went on longer. The climbing was fun and thought provoking, and the bolting keeps you honest. Nov 1, 2016