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Routes in The Crow's Nest

Calypso S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clambake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corvus B. TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crow's Nest, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dingy, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ill Gotten Booty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
J-boat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keel Hauled S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Keel-Ho S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land Ho! S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Mermaid, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mussels S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mutiny S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nantucket Sleigh Ride S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pee Wee's Big Adventure T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
S.O.S. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Saint Elmo's Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Scuttlebutt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sea Breeze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seasick S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Starboard Drift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trad's Nest, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Woman Overboard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 988 total, 9/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on May 26, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

In short, this route looks much easier from the ground, but the moves are challenging and surprisingly difficult to read, which is probably what made it both interesting and enjoyable.

Stick clip the first bolt if you're not feeling too confident and follow jugs for a couple of moves until a short bulge is in your face. Luckily, the crux comes early, which is getting from the 2nd bolt to the 3rd on crimps and flakes. Easier climbing follows up to the next bolt, then comes a fun exit to the anchors involving your choice of stemming, laybacking, mantling, or lunging.

Location

Scramble up the gully separating the main wall from the rest of this crag. This route starts just right of the two trees.

Protection

4 bolts to anchor - stickclip recommended

Photos

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Torie Kidd
NH
 
Torie Kidd   NH
 
Really enjoyed this one. I wish it went on longer. The climbing was fun and thought provoking, and the bolting keeps you honest. Nov 1, 2016
Andrew Hewitt
Somerville
  5.10c
Andrew Hewitt   Somerville
  5.10c
Good route that is a bit of a change of pace from the rest of the routes at Crow's Nest. Excellent opening moves and challenging crux that requires lots of technique.

I don't think the bolts have been updated b/c it is still a bit sporty as far as Rumney goes. Don't blow the 3rd clip or you're going for a potentially painful ride.

The top stemming is amazing! Sep 18, 2016
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.10+
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.10+
This route is wonderful! This route is sustained at the grade, and climbs very well. many rests and cruxes requiring different techniques. The view at the top is great! Oct 12, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Chris is planning on changing the bolts a bit. We were on it the other day and he marked where he wants them. Jul 14, 2014
Legalto  
Really fun climb. The beginning reminded me of huge feature boulder problems that are typically seen at bouldering comps. I wish there was another bolt between the third and fourth would be nice. It's a solid 10 feet in between, and I'm not sure how safe the fall is @_@ Jul 14, 2014
Derek Jf
Northeast
  5.10c
Derek Jf   Northeast
  5.10c
This route deserves more traffic. The odd-looking middle section and awesome wide-stemming finish are great! Well worth getting on & wrestling with the start crux to get to the rest of this awesome line. Jun 24, 2014