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Routes in The Crow's Nest

Calypso S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clambake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corvus B. TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crow's Nest, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dingy, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ill Gotten Booty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
J-boat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keel Hauled S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Keel-Ho S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land Ho! S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Mermaid, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mussels S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mutiny S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nantucket Sleigh Ride S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pee Wee's Big Adventure T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
S.O.S. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Saint Elmo's Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Scuttlebutt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sea Breeze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seasick S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Starboard Drift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trad's Nest, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Woman Overboard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: FA Mark Sprague 9/03
Page Views: 2,454 total, 24/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Jun 8, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

A nice warmup or first lead that follows jugs up a friendly left leaning flake to gain a ledge below a short roof. Move left over a crux bulge and then use the underclings to full advantage to move back right and up the corner above the roof to the anchor. There is a good hueco in the roof from which to clip the 5th bolt to protect the crux.

Location

On the right end of the Crow's Nest, left of Scuttlebutt and right of Mussels.

Protection

6 bolts to anchors.
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.7
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.7
Short, but a great route with fun, varied climbing. I'd say it's one of the best routes in its grade at Rumney. It also features a challenging but well-protected finish through the overlaps for 5.6-max climbers. Oct 13, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
Superb gear placements if you want to do this one on trad. Fun line. Jul 3, 2015
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
I'll second that this goes very well on gear. It would be well worth it for a new trad climber to come up for Pee Wee's, then do this on gear (and clip the bolts if they feel sketched). It's one of my favorite easy climbs too - it requires some technique. Oct 2, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6
This route protects fairly well with trad gear, can be a bit spicy on the slab section if you miss the one opportunity for gear. Aug 12, 2012
kenr  
High density of interesting + varied moves at the grade. But much shorter than expected for 6 bolts. The walk up to Crow's Nest from Jimmy is longer than some maps suggest, so make sure you have other things to do here at Crows Nest to justify the labor of approach. Aug 5, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6
Really fun route with a wide variety of styles of climbing, in forty feet I used a arm jam, a fist jam, did two hand foot matches, and a hand jam, also with a fun easy slab mixed in. There is a lot o do in this short climb. Aug 20, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I almost died scrubbing this one. I took a whipper from the anchors to just a few feet off the ground on a static rope. Luckily the rope was running down from the top of the cliff so it had enough stretch.
Lesson: Always recheck your rope after you let somebody use it to get to their project and use full body weight to check there is no slack in the system, doh!(A giant hidden loop had gotten caught in the bushes when they whipped it back into position) Apr 13, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6
FA Mark Sprague 9/03 Jan 29, 2010