Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Crow's Nest

Calypso S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clambake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corvus B. TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crow's Nest, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dingy, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ill Gotten Booty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
J-boat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keel Hauled S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Keel-Ho S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land Ho! S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Mermaid, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mussels S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mutiny S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nantucket Sleigh Ride S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pee Wee's Big Adventure T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
S.O.S. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Saint Elmo's Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Scuttlebutt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sea Breeze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seasick S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Starboard Drift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trad's Nest, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Woman Overboard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: D. Quinn
Page Views: 1,497 total, 12/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on May 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


41 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

I found info for this climb on one of the "other" climbing pages. The description was pretty short so I may have the wrong climb, but this pretty much seemed like it. I'll try to describe it a little better. Starts with a technical, bouldery sequence up fairly thin seems on a vertical section of the rock. After a big through with the left hand, work up a vertical seem with a few pods, but still too small and shallow for finger locks (balancy, fun crux.) It seems to be easier for shorter climbers but fun none the less. Above the second bolt the angle eases a bit and it turns into a fun slab climb, with one, thin, easier crux section.

Location

On the right side of the crag, about 30 feet past Pee Wee's Big Adventure. The bottom (crux) of the climb is in the shade when the leaves are out. There is one more bolt line to the right of this route.

Protection

Bolts, maybe 7, up to chains. There were quick draws hanging at the anchor when I did it but you may want to be prepared incase they're gone, it's hard to see the top from the ground.

Photos

M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
I climbed it again yesterday, Mark, and I will have to retract that statement. Taking a better line (to the left of the bolts at the start) put me in a better position to reach the clips; though it was a reach, it was a comfortable reach.

(Perhaps it was because originally I climbed straight up the bolt line...which felt really stout! Starting 3-4 feet to the left of the bolt line felt much more fair for 5.11a.)

The crux comes between the first and second bolt...stick clipping the second bolt may be a good idea if 5.11a is not a given for you! Oct 6, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
"Tall Quinn" is ~ 5'7-8". Did you try hip clipping? I have never known Dave to bolt reachy clips May 7, 2015
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
The start might be easier for a shorty, but this one was definitely bolted by a tall man.

If you are in fact a shorty like me (5'6" with -1 reach) you will find making the clips strenuous since you can't reach the bolts from any of the logical stances and must climb up a little and lock off. Pre-hung draws (from climbing Seabreeze next door or from offering the first go to your tall friend) will make you feel better about life. May 7, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
A lot better than I expected. Fun! Aug 18, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
S.O.S. ... Steep Ole Slab Mar 21, 2010