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Routes in The Crow's Nest

Calypso S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clambake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corvus B. TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crow's Nest, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dingy, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ill Gotten Booty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
J-boat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keel Hauled S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Keel-Ho S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land Ho! S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Mermaid, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mussels S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mutiny S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nantucket Sleigh Ride S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pee Wee's Big Adventure T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
S.O.S. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Saint Elmo's Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Scuttlebutt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sea Breeze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seasick S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Starboard Drift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trad's Nest, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Woman Overboard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: Lee Hansche may 2010
Page Views: 496 total, 6/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

This route climbs the slab left of Woman Overboard using her anchors. It deserves to be bolted but no new bolts are allowed at the Crow's Nest. Really enjoyable low angle face climbing on tiny edges and a decent crimper here and there.

Start 10ft left of the start of Woman Overboard, starting from the ground is recommended but an easier start is possible from the boulder on the left. Once you are on, stay on your feet to the anchors.

Really good! Do it.

Location

The slab left of Woman Overboard.

Protection

Toprope. i'd love to bolt it cause its way better than half the stuff on the cliff in my opinion. However, there is a freeze on bolting at this crag so im holding back...

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lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I'm with you mark... but im not a veteran route developer so i'm just trying to follow the rules... this one has merit and is more worth while to me than half of the other stuff on the right side of crow's nest... Maybe i'll drop ward an email at some point... Aug 31, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
That being said, it's not exactly being strictly enforced. If you find something way up the hill and it is really good, independent and won't impact rare plants, maybe have a chat with Ward and he can see if it would be all right. Otherwise, please follow it though so we maintain good relations with the Forest service and don't end up with completely grid bolted cliffs Aug 31, 2010
S. Neoh  
Thanks Mark. I've really misplaced my copy of Ward's new guide. Grrr. I agree with your personal opinion; I feel like two in the list ought not be there, yet. Oh, well. Waimea is pretty packed with independent routes now and it is not on the list. Aug 31, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Soon, check page 14 of Ward's new book. The moratorium was a compromise between the RCA and those who felt the crags were approaching the saturation point for bolted routes and also to protect some areas with rare vegetation. The crags listed under the moratorium are The Meadows Crags, New Wave, Kennel, Pulse, 5.8 Monsters, Darth Vadar, Bonsai, Jimmy Cliff and Crows Nest. Personally, I think a few of those got added prematurely, but they are pretty filled in. Aug 31, 2010
S. Neoh  
Lee, thanks for pointing out this new route.
Excuse my ignorance everyone, but why is there a bolting ban at Crow's Nest? What are the reasons for it? Does this ban extend to other crags at Rumney?

Thanks. Aug 31, 2010