Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Dave Quinn
Page Views: 1,249 total · 10/month
Shared By: D.Quinn on Sep 27, 2008 with updates from Eli .
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details


Climb crack to anchors.


Just right of "Woman Overboard".


Can be climbed all on gear, (1st ascent was done trad), recently retro-bolted


Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
can i get some more details please? Apr 20, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
I try to keep my mouth shut when it comes to retro-bolting at rumney but i must this route needed bolts like sharks need scuba lessons... i had gear with me so i skipped the bolts in favor of gear... It was super well protected, i have no idea how this could be pg13 while cliping the bolts...

anyway... since there is no description for the route... try this... climb easy moves to the first bolt and a stance... Climb moderate crack moves (really fun!) to one longish move to a good crack hold and on to a good horizontal... move left and make an fun mantel move so you are standing on easy rock... walk up and right to the anchor... May 19, 2009
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Lee I agree this had great natural protection although I clipped the bolts it does not make sense that this got bolted. It is a really fun route though! Nov 23, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
I wish this style crack went on for at least another 20 ft. Nice movements along the whole way. Mar 21, 2010
Joseph Lascurain
Joseph Lascurain   Cincinnati
Maybe it's just because I'm tall, but if you told me this climb was 5.7, I would believe you. The crack moves are fun though. And while I wouldn't want to fall before the first bolt, I dont think I would call it pg13. Jun 1, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I think Dave enjoyed climbing this route on natural gear, but went back and retroed it thinking that nobody would climb it otherwise. It is only very recent that Rumney has seen a bit of a resurgence of people doing the trad routes beyond the very obvious ones like Black Jack Crack. Jun 1, 2011
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I climbed this one gear the other day and I agree it does protect very well. And is a fun short trad lead. Aug 12, 2012
David Bates
Boston, Massachusetts
David Bates   Boston, Massachusetts
Does not deserve the PG13. It is short but very nice. All the work is in the first three bolts. Jul 14, 2015