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Routes in The Crow's Nest

Calypso S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clambake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corvus B. TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crow's Nest, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dingy, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ill Gotten Booty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
J-boat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keel Hauled S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Keel-Ho S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land Ho! S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Mermaid, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mussels S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mutiny S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nantucket Sleigh Ride S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pee Wee's Big Adventure T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
S.O.S. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Saint Elmo's Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Scuttlebutt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sea Breeze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seasick S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Starboard Drift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trad's Nest, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Woman Overboard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Dave Quinn
Page Views: 1,140 total, 10/month
Shared By: D.Quinn on Sep 27, 2008 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Climb crack to anchors.

Location

Just right of "Woman Overboard".

Protection

Can be climbed all on gear, (1st ascent was done trad), recently retro-bolted

Photos

David Bates
Boston, Massachusetts
 
David Bates   Boston, Massachusetts
 
Does not deserve the PG13. It is short but very nice. All the work is in the first three bolts. Jul 14, 2015
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
I climbed this one gear the other day and I agree it does protect very well. And is a fun short trad lead. Aug 12, 2012
M Sprague
New England
5.9
M Sprague   New England  
5.9
I think Dave enjoyed climbing this route on natural gear, but went back and retroed it thinking that nobody would climb it otherwise. It is only very recent that Rumney has seen a bit of a resurgence of people doing the trad routes beyond the very obvious ones like Black Jack Crack. Jun 1, 2011
Joseph Lascurain
Cincinnati
 
Joseph Lascurain   Cincinnati
 
Maybe it's just because I'm tall, but if you told me this climb was 5.7, I would believe you. The crack moves are fun though. And while I wouldn't want to fall before the first bolt, I dont think I would call it pg13. Jun 1, 2011
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.9
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.9
I wish this style crack went on for at least another 20 ft. Nice movements along the whole way. Mar 21, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
Lee I agree this had great natural protection although I clipped the bolts it does not make sense that this got bolted. It is a really fun route though! Nov 23, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I try to keep my mouth shut when it comes to retro-bolting at rumney but i must this route needed bolts like sharks need scuba lessons... i had gear with me so i skipped the bolts in favor of gear... It was super well protected, i have no idea how this could be pg13 while cliping the bolts...

anyway... since there is no description for the route... try this... climb easy moves to the first bolt and a stance... Climb moderate crack moves (really fun!) to one longish move to a good crack hold and on to a good horizontal... move left and make an fun mantel move so you are standing on easy rock... walk up and right to the anchor... May 19, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
can i get some more details please? Apr 20, 2009