Type: Sport
FA: chris smith 5/99
Page Views: 355 total · 3/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 10, 2008
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

This route's crux is a short boulder problem traverse that is very technical and engaging. Even once you have the beta, the moves are tenuous but not so strenuous. The climbing below is more straight forward and about 5.9 tops.

Climb the cracked corner, stemming and jamming past the inverted "V" chimney of Keel Hauled (5.12b) where you do a couple of 5.9 moves to a stance in the corner (or a seat on the ledge). Here you have to get technical as you traverse left on tricky underclings for hands and a nice rail for feet. Speaking of feet, get ready to use them as they are the key. Once you figure the sequence out its not too hard to make it out to a side pull jug and a few real easy moves will put you on top.

Location

20-30 feet right of Ill Gotten Booty (5.9+) there is a corner with a crack in it. This is the start of Saint Elmo's Fire and Keel Hauled.

Protection

7 bolts to anchor.

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twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
Hmmm I'm pretty sure John Parr has the FA on this one..... teeheehee.... Mar 12, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
??..Inside joke? Chris definitely did the FA Mar 13, 2010
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
Haha St Elmo's Fire is a (classic) 80's song by John Parr. Don't listen to it though, cuz you won't be able to stop for at least 2 weeks. Mar 23, 2010
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
Finally got on this climb today, and it was awesome! The bottom part is fun warm-up through the crux of Keel-Ho, then you get to the sweet undercling traverse. There are definitely sweet spots on the undercling, and finding them and avoiding the crappy parts is key to hanging on. The feet are pretty good the whole way, too.

If you want to do an 11d without any hard clips, this is a good one! Apr 4, 2010
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
After climbing the fun crack, and looking at it from close up, I thought it looked super hard (didn't have a guidebook on me), so I kept traversing over through Keel-Ho. I'll have to take an actual crack on it next time. May 21, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Once you commit and pull into the crux, it is not bad at all. Once you do this, try the harder version of the same moves on Catch the Wave at Waimea May 22, 2012