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Routes in The Crow's Nest

Calypso S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clambake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corvus B. TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crow's Nest, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dingy, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ill Gotten Booty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
J-boat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keel Hauled S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Keel-Ho S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land Ho! S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Mermaid, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mussels S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mutiny S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nantucket Sleigh Ride S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pee Wee's Big Adventure T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
S.O.S. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Saint Elmo's Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Scuttlebutt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sea Breeze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seasick S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Starboard Drift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trad's Nest, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Woman Overboard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport
FA: FA 6/97 - Paul R. Wonsavage
Page Views: 1,068 total · 8/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on May 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

A very techincal route with small crimps and an akward ramp near the top. Mantal the start and move easily up to the wall. The climbing is balancy but not hard until the wall gets steep and the holds become very thin. The crux for me was working through the crimps and up into the ramp above. I didn't really figure it out and didn't get the send, not so sure that that bothers me all that much though.

Location

Pretty much right in the middle of the crag. There is a big corner on the left with a bombay chimney (Keel Hauled/Saint Elmo's Fire.) The route is the second bolt line to the right of that corner corner, starting at a short steep wall below the ledge.

Protection

8 bolts to Lower off.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
FA 6/97 - Paul R. Wonsavage, D.D.S., F.A.G.D (aka - Paulie or "Dr. Paul"), depending on circumstances and the state of his hair. By the way, he is an extremely good dentist. May 4, 2011
Derek Jf
Northeast
 
Derek Jf   Northeast
 
Very good climbing - do this route. Sep 7, 2015
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
  5.11b
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
  5.11b
I recommend belaying and starting by traversing right from the upper ledge. We had some big/near ground-fall potential because of the way the rope runs through those first two slab bolts. Also, your not missing any good moves by doing so, I feel that start may even take away from the quality of the climb. SICK climb. pulling up that flat face-o-crimps..... :-D

Also, getting the... either second or third bolt above the ledge seemed a little spicy, but luckily not too hard. Sep 26, 2017

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