Type: Sport
FA: FA 6/97 - Paul R. Wonsavage
Page Views: 1,078 total · 8/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on May 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

A very techincal route with small crimps and an akward ramp near the top. Mantal the start and move easily up to the wall. The climbing is balancy but not hard until the wall gets steep and the holds become very thin. The crux for me was working through the crimps and up into the ramp above. I didn't really figure it out and didn't get the send, not so sure that that bothers me all that much though.

Location

Pretty much right in the middle of the crag. There is a big corner on the left with a bombay chimney (Keel Hauled/Saint Elmo's Fire.) The route is the second bolt line to the right of that corner corner, starting at a short steep wall below the ledge.

Protection

8 bolts to Lower off.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
FA 6/97 - Paul R. Wonsavage, D.D.S., F.A.G.D (aka - Paulie or "Dr. Paul"), depending on circumstances and the state of his hair. By the way, he is an extremely good dentist. May 4, 2011
Derek Jf
Northeast
 
Derek Jf   Northeast
 
Very good climbing - do this route. Sep 7, 2015
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
  5.11b
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
  5.11b
I recommend belaying and starting by traversing right from the upper ledge. We had some big/near ground-fall potential because of the way the rope runs through those first two slab bolts. Also, your not missing any good moves by doing so, I feel that start may even take away from the quality of the climb. SICK climb. pulling up that flat face-o-crimps..... :-D

Also, getting the... either second or third bolt above the ledge seemed a little spicy, but luckily not too hard. Sep 26, 2017