Type: Sport, 20 ft
FA: Mark Sprague 5/97
Page Views: 1,414 total · 11/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 18, 2008
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

For a VERY short route The Dingy packs quite a punch. You can clip the first bolt from the ledge if you are even halfway tall but when you get to the second and last bolt you can clip it from a great hold and just one very tricky and big move keeps you from the anchors. Or a few smaller moves, either way it involves lots of technique and a little power as well. Throw for the top, it's good.
youtube.com/watch?v=_bm4mRJ…

Location

The far left route at the crag. As you walk left look for the short route. If you fall to your doom you went too far.

Protection

2 bolts to a set of anchors.

Photos

BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
 
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
 
With the use of a very small crimp, this can be climbed statically without throwing for the lip. The climb would also make for a really good V3/4 boulder problem if blowing the crux didn't mean falling to your death. May 26, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Fun little problem. I pissed and moaned, swearing this couldn't be 11. Then I noticed small crimps on the angling upper face. The way Adam (5'6") and I (6'++) did it was both static and balancy. After all of our whining, this was a very enjoyable and rewarding (albeit short) climb. Apr 30, 2012
Adam Conroy
Cambridge, MA
 
Adam Conroy   Cambridge, MA
 
Kind of love this climb. If there were a good place for mats and it wasn't on the edge of a cliff face this would make for a spectacular (V4ish?) boulder problem. It's one of those climbs where you are totally confused while you play around on it and then you figure out how you're going to send it and it's so rewarding and uncontrived when it just "clicks." Apr 30, 2012
S. Neoh
  5.11b
S. Neoh  
  5.11b
A lot of fun albeit crimpy if one were to do it all statically (I too am 5'6"). Just wish it was 60 feet longer! Mark has a great eye for good climbs. Apr 30, 2012
Torie Kidd
NH
 
Torie Kidd   NH
 
At 5'3" I was able to do it statically. I like that there are multiple solutions. Pretty cool little techy and tricky climb. Nov 1, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11b
here is one of a few solutions to this perplexing problem.
youtube.com/watch?v=_bm4mRJ… Nov 5, 2016
S. Neoh
  5.11b
S. Neoh  
  5.11b
Interesting video. I did the climb almost directly over or right of the bolt line, where it is (still) clean. No arete after the start move if I recall correctly. Some small but good crimps. Techy. Good movement. Nov 6, 2016