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Routes in The Crow's Nest

Calypso S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clambake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corvus B. TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crow's Nest, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dingy, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ill Gotten Booty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
J-boat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keel Hauled S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Keel-Ho S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land Ho! S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Mermaid, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mussels S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mutiny S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nantucket Sleigh Ride S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pee Wee's Big Adventure T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
S.O.S. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Saint Elmo's Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Scuttlebutt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sea Breeze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seasick S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Starboard Drift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trad's Nest, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Woman Overboard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 20 ft
FA: Mark Sprague 5/97
Page Views: 1,230 total, 11/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jun 18, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

For a VERY short route The Dingy packs quite a punch. You can clip the first bolt from the ledge if you are even halfway tall but when you get to the second and last bolt you can clip it from a great hold and just one very tricky and big move keeps you from the anchors. Or a few smaller moves, either way it involves lots of technique and a little power as well. Throw for the top, it's good.

Location

The far left route at the crag. As you walk left look for the short route. If you fall to your doom you went too far.

Protection

2 bolts to a set of anchors.

Photos

S. Neoh
  5.11b
S. Neoh  
  5.11b
Interesting video. I did the climb almost directly over or right of the bolt line, where it is (still) clean. No arete after the start move if I recall correctly. Some small but good crimps. Techy. Good movement. Nov 6, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
here is one of a few solutions to this perplexing problem.
youtube.com/watch?v=_bm4mRJ… Nov 5, 2016
Torie Kidd
NH
 
Torie Kidd   NH
 
At 5'3" I was able to do it statically. I like that there are multiple solutions. Pretty cool little techy and tricky climb. Nov 1, 2016
S. Neoh
  5.11b
S. Neoh  
  5.11b
A lot of fun albeit crimpy if one were to do it all statically (I too am 5'6"). Just wish it was 60 feet longer! Mark has a great eye for good climbs. Apr 30, 2012
Adam Conroy
Cambridge, MA
 
Adam Conroy   Cambridge, MA
 
Kind of love this climb. If there were a good place for mats and it wasn't on the edge of a cliff face this would make for a spectacular (V4ish?) boulder problem. It's one of those climbs where you are totally confused while you play around on it and then you figure out how you're going to send it and it's so rewarding and uncontrived when it just "clicks." Apr 30, 2012
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Fun little problem. I pissed and moaned, swearing this couldn't be 11. Then I noticed small crimps on the angling upper face. The way Adam (5'6") and I (6'++) did it was both static and balancy. After all of our whining, this was a very enjoyable and rewarding (albeit short) climb. Apr 30, 2012
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
 
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
 
With the use of a very small crimp, this can be climbed statically without throwing for the lip. The climb would also make for a really good V3/4 boulder problem if blowing the crux didn't mean falling to your death. May 26, 2009