Type: Trad
FA: mark sprague 2000
Page Views: 986 total · 7/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 25, 2007
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Not a wonderfully memorable climb but one you could do as you get used to trad climbing. I find that if you can place gear well at Rumney, you can place it almost anywhere. It can be pretty funky at times but if you take the time and practice you will find what you are looking for and learn a lot.

Basically the crux is a short section at the bottom. If done directly I feel like it might be a bit stiff, but it goes pretty easy if you start to the left and traverse right to the ramp. The ramp is easy slab. Take the time to find the gear and you will have a good time, and don't forget to enjoy the view.

At the top of the ramp is an anchor which you can lower off above Sea Sick.

Location

The cracked ramp heading up and right on the left end of the cliff. Tops out above and lowers off of Sea Sick 5.11c

Protection

Normal trad rack does the trick. Lower from anchors. The gear can be tricky and not always reliable, so this route may not be good for inexperienced leaders.

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matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6
I think if cleaned this could be a very good climb, but in its dirty state its a one star climb for sure Oct 27, 2012
Bobby Mustard
  5.6
Bobby Mustard  
  5.6
The crux of this route is definitely finding placements that are better than marginal. Jul 21, 2015
Derek Ehrnschwender
Somerville, MA
Derek Ehrnschwender   Somerville, MA
Had to do a little gardening but I thought the good gear was plentiful. May 12, 2019