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Routes in The Crow's Nest

Calypso S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clambake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corvus B. TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crow's Nest, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dingy, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ill Gotten Booty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
J-boat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keel Hauled S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Keel-Ho S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land Ho! S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Mermaid, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mussels S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mutiny S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nantucket Sleigh Ride S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pee Wee's Big Adventure T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
S.O.S. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Saint Elmo's Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Scuttlebutt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sea Breeze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seasick S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Starboard Drift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trad's Nest, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Woman Overboard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: mark sprague 2000
Page Views: 823 total, 7/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 25, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Not a wonderfully memorable climb but one you could do as you get used to trad climbing. I find that if you can place gear well at Rumney, you can place it almost anywhere. It can be pretty funky at times but if you take the time and practice you will find what you are looking for and learn a lot.

Basically the crux is a short section at the bottom. If done directly I feel like it might be a bit stiff, but it goes pretty easy if you start to the left and traverse right to the ramp. The ramp is easy slab. Take the time to find the gear and you will have a good time, and don't forget to enjoy the view.

At the top of the ramp is an anchor which you can lower off above Sea Sick.

Location

The cracked ramp heading up and right on the left end of the cliff. Tops out above and lowers off of Sea Sick 5.11c

Protection

Normal trad rack does the trick. Lower from anchors. The gear can be tricky and not always reliable, so this route may not be good for inexperienced leaders.

Photos

Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.6
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.6
The crux of this route is definitely finding placements that are better than marginal. Jul 21, 2015
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6
I think if cleaned this could be a very good climb, but in its dirty state its a one star climb for sure Oct 27, 2012