Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Ed Esmond
Page Views: 338 total · 3/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on May 26, 2009
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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55 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

This short but worthwhile route has good rock, mellow moves, and a quick crux nearing the end. If you're feeling adventurous, you can even mantle over the top.

Boulder up onto the ledge above the small cave and clip the first bolt on the right. Easy moves up good holds will get you to the fourth bolt and then figure out the sequence through the crimpy finger cracks before getting back to jugs and the anchor. Topout if you want.

Location

This is the shortest route on the buttress to the right of the gully. Mutiny climbs the right side of the face right of Clambake and Calypso, to the left of Mussels and Little Mermaid, directly above the small, ground-level cave.

Protection

4 bolts to anchors

Photos

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Derek Jf
Northeast
  5.10b
Derek Jf   Northeast
  5.10b
5.9 climbing to cool 10b finish. Moves at the top were reminiscent of the left trending crux at the top of "No Money Down" Jun 24, 2014
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
  5.10b
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
  5.10b
5.8 or easier climbing to a solid tricky crux that is 10b. Fun route but definitely not as good as it's neighbor. Sep 18, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Has anybody else noticed that there's always something just a wee bit tricky about an Ed Esmond route? My son and I climbed this one when it was wet, and that added extra spice, but I couldn't figure out the crux move to the left until Ian told me to get sideways and do a drop knee. A cool move but . . . tricky! Oct 13, 2015
S. Neoh  
LOL, Nick. Yes, I do, and all the time. I guess we need to be more cerebral when on one of Ed's routes! Oct 13, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Or just bray a lot :)) Yes, they seem to always have something tricky, but I usually like them. Oct 13, 2015