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Routes in The Crow's Nest

Calypso S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Clambake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Corvus B. TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crow's Nest, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dingy, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ill Gotten Booty S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
J-boat T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keel Hauled S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Keel-Ho S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land Ho! S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Mermaid, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mussels S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mutiny S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nantucket Sleigh Ride S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pee Wee's Big Adventure T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
S.O.S. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Saint Elmo's Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Scuttlebutt S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sea Breeze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seasick S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Starboard Drift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Trad's Nest, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Woman Overboard S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Mark Sprague 8/04
Page Views: 1,297 total, 12/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on May 26, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

A slightly deceptive and fun line that might feel a bit stiff for the grade. At the end of the day, I was positive this was a 5.10.

Scramble up onto a ledge to clip the first bolt right of the discontinuous crack. Climb up decent holds in the crack past two more bolts and you'll find yourself at the crux, your choice of slopers and pumpy underclings with a clip in the midst of it. Move left after the 4th bolt to gain a rest and follow jugs up the crack to the chains.

Location

This is the 2nd bolt line to the left of Mutiny on the buttress to the right of the gully.

Protection

5 bolts to chains

Photos

Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Well, I climbed the route with the bolts in my face or to my LEFT, and I found the route hard as a result. One part involves an undercling traverse. Oct 13, 2015
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
  5.9
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
  5.9
I'm 5.3" and did not notice anything strange with the bolt placement... Jun 9, 2012
M LaViolette Jr.
The Past
  5.9+
M LaViolette Jr.   The Past
  5.9+
Yeah, I was so far to the left I think I might have been off route. Clips were a full arms length to the right, but any closer to the bolts felt like hard .10. I ended up standing on the shelf just below the right angling crack and then following that up. Oct 20, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9+
Yeah maybe I climbed it wrong, but its just how it seemed to me. May 30, 2011
M Sprague
New England
  5.9+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.9+
No biggie, I was just a bit surprised. I always climbed it with the bolts a little to the right, but I never remember any difficult reaches to them. May 30, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9+
I think that because the route climbs more naturally to the left and keeps it at the .9+ grade there. If you follow the weakness to the left of the bolts you have to clip two or three bolts leaning back right pretty far and detracts from the climb a bit. It seems the rock is solid but I could be wrong about that. It mentions this in the new guide so people do know to stay left, the move are really fun though! May 29, 2011
M Sprague
New England
  5.9+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.9+
Why do you think they should be to the left, Matt? My intention was to have them so you could climb the route in the most natural way, have reasonable clips for people of all sizes and safe falls. I'm always happy to hear how I could have done something better. In thinking about the bolt positions you also have to take in to account rock quality and how the rope will run and maybe not encroaching on another nearby route. May 28, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9+
This route has fun moves, the only issue is the bolts should all be at least a foot to the left. If the bolts were placed more left the route would feel more natural, in my opinion. May 28, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9+
Mark Sprague 8/04 Jan 29, 2010