Type: Sport
FA: Darryl Roth, Bob D'Antonio, & Bob Murray
Page Views: 1,537 total · 9/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Sep 28, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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6 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

This is an excellent and sequential route. It features steep crimpin' and sharp pocket pullin' (big surprise). The technical crux is around the third clip, crimping on a gnarly, slippery sidepull. It is somewhat reachy. It eases off a little bit after that, with a shake out rest followed by another sting-in-the-tail set of thin balance moves getting to the intimidating last clip (I used a looong sling for this one). Finish with jugs to the anchors.

The guidebook calls this 12a/b, but I would lean more on the "b" side, IMO. For crude comparison sake, I thought this route was harder than Freeform, Phase Dance, Helter Skelter, or Sleight of Hand (in Ten Sleep). About the same or harder than Little Mecca or Happiness (Ten Sleep).

Location Suggest change

This is the route just right of Cactus Rose, and third route right of the 5.9 crack that is between Bachar... and E=mc^2.

Protection Suggest change

Half a dozen bolts or so. A long draw is helpful on the last clip. I stick clipped the first one.