Type: Sport
FA: ??
Page Views: 761 total · 7/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Sep 28, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

This is an excellent and sequential route. It features steep crimpin' and sharp pocket pullin' (big surprise). The technical crux is around the third clip, crimping on a gnarly, slippery sidepull. It is somewhat reachy. It eases off a little bit after that, with a shake out rest followed by another sting-in-the-tail set of thin balance moves getting to the intimidating last clip (I used a looong sling for this one). Finish with jugs to the anchors.

The guidebook calls this 12a/b, but I would lean more on the "b" side, IMO. For crude comparison sake, I thought this route was harder than Freeform, Phase Dance, Helter Skelter, or Sleight of Hand (in Ten Sleep). About the same or harder than Little Mecca or Happiness in Slavery (Ten Sleep).

Location

This is the route just right of Cactus Rose, and third route right of the 5.9 crack that is between Bachar... and E=mc^2.

Protection

Half a dozen bolts or so. A long draw is helpful on the last clip. I stick clipped the first one.

Photos

Zane Dordai
Salt Lake City
  5.12c
Zane Dordai   Salt Lake City
  5.12c
Semi-spoiler alert! After the big jug rest at the 5th bolt, I traversed out right into a small dihedral and then back left over the arete. One also has the potential for a huge, albeit totally safe, fall if they blow the last move before that 6th clip. I saw pretty much no holds going straight up through the bolt line, so traversing seemed most logical and made the route very diverse and interesting, but is this what is traditionally done? One of the best at Shelf that I've tried.... Jan 26, 2013
Yes, there was traversing done on the FA. Bolts in a straight line weren't intended to deceive but to be best for rope management with reasonable clips where they are. The route isn't a give-away with the subtle sequences and sparse holds. Sounds like you were doing what I did, Zane. Jan 27, 2014