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How Ed Lost His Mind
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.6 from 20
votes
Routes in Cactus Rose Cliff
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Aliens Ate My Penis S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Alligator Ed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Arizona Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bachar Up Against The Wall And Kauk Him S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Back in Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bald Headed Neocons S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Barbecueing Traditions S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cactus Rose S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Child's Play S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crack to Black S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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E=mc^2 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Handsome Alien S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Hell Raiser S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hell Razors S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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How Ed Lost His Mind S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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John Wayne Never Wore Boxer Shorts S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Little Boys With Power Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Maiden's Milk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mark Finds Bob Bolting S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Munchkins on Parade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Needle Lies, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Omen, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Paper Bondage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pigs in Bondage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Raising Arizona S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Skinheads Big Night Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sticks and Stone May Break My Bones... T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sweat Hog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Take The Skinheads Bowling S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Tower of Beta, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Unknown S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Vapor Trails S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Welcome To The Machine S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Whisper of Immortality S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 139 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Kenan on Oct 24, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Description
This is the second of 3 bolted routes on the face to the right of the wide crack and the large boulder where the approach trail meets Cactus Rose Wall. It is between "The Needle Lies" and "John Wayne Never Wore Boxer Shorts". I think it's pretty clear that these routes will feel a bit sandbagged to the normal 10a climber at Shelf, so don't expect an easy warmup. Thin technical moves, sustained climbing, and relatively minimal bolt placements are the name of the game for most routes on this wall.
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