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How Ed Lost His Mind
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.7 from 31
votes
Routes in Cactus Rose Cliff
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[Redacted] S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Aliens Ate My Penis S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Alligator Ed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arizona Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bachar Up Against The Wall And Kauk Him S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bald Headed Neocons S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Barbecueing Traditions S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cactus Rose S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Calm Before the Storm S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Child's Play S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cowboy's Delight S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crack to Black S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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E=mc^2 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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End Of The Line S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Feather's Edge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Feathers Ledge S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Handsome Alien S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Hell Raiser S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hell Razors S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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How Ed Lost His Mind S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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In Too Deep S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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John Wayne Never Wore Boxer Shorts S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Little Boys With Power Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Luck of the Draw S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Maiden's Milk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mark Finds Bob Bolting S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Munchkins on Parade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Needle Lies, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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No Techno S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Old School Skills S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Omen, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Paper Bondage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pigs in Bondage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Raising Arizona S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rolling Thunder S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shelf Rose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sin Wagon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Squeezebox S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stairway to Seven S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sticks and Stone May Break My Bones, but Whips and Chains Excite Me T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sweat Hog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Take The Skinheads Bowling S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Tornado of Souls S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Vapor Trails S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Welcome To The Machine S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Where the River Flows S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Whisper of Immortality S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 773 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Kenan on Oct 24, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is the second of 3 bolted routes on the face to the right of the wide crack and the large boulder where the approach trail meets Cactus Rose Wall. It is between "The Needle Lies" and "John Wayne Never Wore Boxer Shorts". I think it's pretty clear that these routes will feel a bit sandbagged to the normal 10a climber at Shelf, so don't expect an easy warmup. Thin technical moves, sustained climbing, and relatively minimal bolt placements are the name of the game for most routes on this wall.
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