Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 139 total · 2/month
Shared By: Kenan on Oct 24, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

This is the second of 3 bolted routes on the face to the right of the wide crack and the large boulder where the approach trail meets Cactus Rose Wall. It is between "The Needle Lies" and "John Wayne Never Wore Boxer Shorts". I think it's pretty clear that these routes will feel a bit sandbagged to the normal 10a climber at Shelf, so don't expect an easy warmup. Thin technical moves, sustained climbing, and relatively minimal bolt placements are the name of the game for most routes on this wall.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Keith W
  5.10b
Keith W  
  5.10b
A bit of a sandbag for sure. Still a good warm-up for the area and fun. Much more secure than Needle Lies, IMO. The bolts are spread out but safe. Nov 6, 2017