Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 743 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Oct 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

When you arrive at the top of the trail you will be by a large boulder that splits the crag. The first route to the right of this boulder is 'The Needle Lies'. This route is much harder than 10a unless I missed something severe. The crux involves a reachy deadpoint/throw to a large sidepull. This is going to be quite hard for shorter people (under 5'6") as you will have to use desperate crimps (5.10 Haha). Not a really great warm up as the climbing is in your face from the start. Hope you have fun with this one. Clean rock and holds just a little harder than it looks.

Protection

3 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Sirius
Oakland, CA
  5.10a
Sirius   Oakland, CA
  5.10a
The move to the sidepull didn't feel so desperate. I thought this was a good warmup because - what else are you going to start with on this wall? The bolts are well placed and make it a safe route.

After topping out you can traverse right along a loose and slightly sloping but wide ledge to the small tree. Good toproping on stiffer stuff. Dec 8, 2003
sam flournoy
estes park, co
5.10a
sam flournoy   estes park, co
5.10a
For posterity . . .agree on the 10 rating, especially for shorter folks. This was a pretty good first climb at Shelf, what with the incredible, sculpted (read: sharp!) limestone features. Get good but polished feet and reach way, way out for a big hold. Fun but pretty easy after that. Apr 4, 2005
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
 
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
 
I think 10a is a sandbag, I did Unusual Weather after this and found it to be easier than this route unless I missed something severe. Head over here when The Bank is still in the shade and get warmed up. May 1, 2010