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Routes in Cactus Rose Cliff

Aliens Ate My Penis S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alligator Ed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arizona Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bachar Up Against The Wall And Kauk Him S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Back in Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bald Headed Neocons S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbecueing Traditions S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cactus Rose S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Child's Play S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crack to Black S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
E=mc2 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handsome Alien S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hell Raiser S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hell Razors S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
How Ed Lost His Mind S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
John Wayne Never Wore Boxer Shorts S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Boys With Power Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maiden's Milk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mark Finds Bob Bolting S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Munchkins on Parade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Needle Lies, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Omen, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paper Bondage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raising Arizona S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skinheads Big Night Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sticks and Stone May Break My Bones... T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweat Hog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Take The Skinheads Bowling S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tower of Beta, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vapor Trails S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome To The Machine S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whisper of Immortality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 70 total · 0/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 9, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is left of [Cactus Rose Wall] approximately 100 feet. Find a semi-free standing pillar with 2 routes on it. According to [Van Horn's] guides, this is the bolted line on the right that goes up a little arete. [Knapp's] guide shows this as the route in the middle of the face. Neither of the guides shows 2 routes there, so I climbed the arete, given that [Van Horn's] guide came first.

Consider clipping the first bolt to be R. You have to commit to a few moves to get to it, and if you come off most likely your feet will hit the ledge, flipping you upside down to fall a total of 30 feet onto your skull. You just might die.

Luckily, the climbing on this route never approaches 10b/c, especially compared to the other similarly graded routes on the south side of the bank. Probably closer to 5.9. The rock is fairly decent, but the climbing is a bit lackluster. The single bolt anchor has some cheezy costume jewelry on it to lower from. I decided to top out on the table of a thousand knives and scramble down the chimney immediately to the west. Worth climbing if you are a connoisseur of obscure [Shelf] choss.

Protection

2 bolts and a single bolt lowering station.

Photos

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I will retro the route. When I did the route eons ago it seemed fine. Oh well, always better to have a safe route. Jul 16, 2004