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Routes in Cactus Rose Cliff

Aliens Ate My Penis S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alligator Ed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arizona Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bachar Up Against The Wall And Kauk Him S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Back in Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bald Headed Neocons S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbecueing Traditions S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cactus Rose S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Child's Play S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crack to Black S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
E=mc2 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handsome Alien S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hell Raiser S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hell Razors S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
How Ed Lost His Mind S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
John Wayne Never Wore Boxer Shorts S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Boys With Power Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maiden's Milk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mark Finds Bob Bolting S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Munchkins on Parade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Needle Lies, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Omen, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paper Bondage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raising Arizona S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skinheads Big Night Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sticks and Stone May Break My Bones... T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweat Hog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Take The Skinheads Bowling S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tower of Beta, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vapor Trails S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome To The Machine S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whisper of Immortality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Rich Aschert?
Page Views: 91 total, 1/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 13, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is listed at 10a in the Van Horn's guide and Knapp's guide. I am not sure if either of them have climbed it or not, but sticking to the bolt line is more likely in the 11c range. If climbing the bolts directly was the intent, this is possibly the hardest 10 at shelf. I think Knapp's guide might mention climbing around the right side and leaning way around to the left to clip, or something like that.

To find this route, look at the description for the route 'Aliens Ate My Penis'. This route is next to it, on the right.

This route was my long term nemesis for about 15 years. Every few years I would think I was climbing well and that maybe I should go give it a shot. This route also beat several of my partners down over the years as well. If you go do it, don't think of it as another fluffy Shelf 10, or it might not go too well.

Climb the face on small dispersed pockets with a slap to a sloping, greasy hold on the arete near the second bolt. Your right leg will probably feel pretty useless about half of the time. Luckily, the climbing eases up a bit when you reach the roof, but you will probably be getting pretty pumped. Luckily, most of the holds are very sharp, so you won't slip off of them (without losing a lot of skin).

Good luck.

Protection

3 bolts - lower off of 3rd bolt or top out and scramble down a gash to the west. Addendum: there are now 2 anchor bolts.

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Kevin Neilson
Boulder
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
The book mentions climbing around the arete, which I did, but even so, it's still a difficult 10 with a hard boulder start. If this is the intended path, the (two) bolts are oddly placed. The burly start is overhanging on pockets and poor feet and clips are made from around the corner. Once I got to the roof and went left to the arete the route eased up and posed little difficulty even though it's a fair distance from the second bolt to the anchors. Look for a nice pocket on the left from which you can clip. Sep 1, 2008
I added two anchors to this route. Hard on-sight for 10+*. If you do the direct start (steep pocketed start), I recommend stick clipping the first bolt. Oct 29, 2005