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Routes in Cactus Rose Cliff

Aliens Ate My Penis S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alligator Ed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arizona Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bachar Up Against The Wall And Kauk Him S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Back in Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bald Headed Neocons S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbecueing Traditions S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cactus Rose S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Child's Play S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crack to Black S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
E=mc2 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handsome Alien S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hell Raiser S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hell Razors S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
How Ed Lost His Mind S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
John Wayne Never Wore Boxer Shorts S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Boys With Power Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maiden's Milk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mark Finds Bob Bolting S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Munchkins on Parade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Needle Lies, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Omen, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paper Bondage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raising Arizona S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skinheads Big Night Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sticks and Stone May Break My Bones... T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweat Hog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Take The Skinheads Bowling S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tower of Beta, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vapor Trails S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome To The Machine S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whisper of Immortality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown (probably Bob D or one of the Marks)
Page Views: 88 total, 1/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 4, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

To find this route, hike up to the cactus rose cliff on the south side of the bank. This route is the third line from the left end of the wall proper. It has almost no chalk on it, and two fairly spaced bolts that lead into the void.

The start is typical Shelf Road, couple thin moves to good holds. Ease your way up to the first bolt which protects the next couple of fun moves, including a nice technical section to get to the next bolt. This second bolt protects some more fun moves that head straight up to a horizontal crack. You can probably traverse left to anchors at the top of 'mark finds bob bolting'. I opted to top out and placed a #3 Camalot in vertical crack at the top. This crack would accept anything from large hexes to #3 to #5 Camalots. I then walked south to a good sized tree 20 feet away to anchor from.

For me, it seemed like 3 minor cruxes - the very start, just after 1st bolt, and just after second bolt. The route was substantially easier than the other 10s on the south side of The Bank (The Omen, John Wayne, Paper Bondage, etc). Looks runout, but the harder climbing is well protected.

Protection

2 bolts, no anchors. You can traverse left to anchors on 'Mark finds Bob bolting', or top out. You can also supplement bolts with a couple stoppers, large tricams, and large cams/hexes for the top out crack.

Per Taketaketaketaketake ....take: there is an independent two bolt anchor in place on this climb.

Photos

Taketaketaketaketake ....take   Colorado Springs
An independent two bolt anchor is in place on this climb. Oct 8, 2017