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Routes in Cactus Rose Cliff

Aliens Ate My Penis S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alligator Ed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arizona Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bachar Up Against The Wall And Kauk Him S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Back in Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bald Headed Neocons S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbecueing Traditions S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cactus Rose S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Child's Play S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crack to Black S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
E=mc^2 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handsome Alien S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hell Raiser S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hell Razors S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
How Ed Lost His Mind S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
John Wayne Never Wore Boxer Shorts S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Boys With Power Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maiden's Milk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mark Finds Bob Bolting S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Munchkins on Parade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Needle Lies, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Omen, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paper Bondage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raising Arizona S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skinheads Big Night Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sticks and Stone May Break My Bones... T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweat Hog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Take The Skinheads Bowling S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tower of Beta, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vapor Trails S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome To The Machine S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whisper of Immortality S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, TR
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Mark Milligan
Page Views: 165 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Oct 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This route is located on the left end of the 'Cactus Rose Crag' This line is the 2nd route from the far left, starting directly in front of pine tree. The climbing is quite continuous on small pockets, sloping ledges. A good route but could be easily underestimated. At the anchor, you can lower from a rap ring on a sling anchor. You can also toprope this route by going around the corner to the left from the base and up through an easy chimney to the top where there are trees to belay from. Have fun. This is not a great warm up, but a decent intermediate route.


4 bolts - 2 bolt/sling anchor.


- No Photos -
If I remember right, the tree that is beneath this climb has a very sharp, dead limb at the top. If it is still there you definitely don't want to fall on it. We're talkin' guts everywhere! Oct 16, 2001
Yes, be careful. I fell from the 4th bolt and almost was shiskibobed on the mother F*%_in tree. It should be cut down. Be careful!!! Sep 22, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The best solotion if the climb is really so dangerous is to either stay away from it, bolt it better (with consideration for tree growth) or to have had it never put in. Since #2 and #3 are not realistic...maybe don't climb it, or get permission from the FA party to add a bolt. I'd rather see a bolt added than a tree removed. Better yet, just make sure your belayer is super attentive near any such fall potential. Careful about doing something as drastic as cutting a tree on public land. If it's private property, then obviously its up to the land owner. I've seen tree removal cause significant hard feelings, access issues, or a dislike of climbers on both public and private land. It might also land you in court and/or jail. My opinon is that removing lichens from a route is one thing- cutting down a large tree is quite a bit more... of course it is debatable. This is my opinion- other's will vary. -Tony Bubb Sep 23, 2002
Sounds like its bolted pretty well to me, as you only "almost" hit the tree. It would be a bad bolting job if you did actually skewer yourself. Remove the tree and you'll understand why so many land managers have issues with climbing, especially bouldering. Sep 23, 2002
richard magill
richard magill  
Did this recently - I thought the last move is harder than a 5.10 move (if you stay directly in line with the bolt and anchors).I was not concerned about the tree. May 8, 2005
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
The tree is definitely something to be aware of. I moved slightly right at the last bolt since I wasn't finding anything remotely 10ish straight up. May 15, 2007
Dan 60D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
Dan 60D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
I wasn't too worried about the tree, did not look to be in the fall line. I also moved a bit right at the top which made it more reasonable for a 10d (although overall I thought this was a really hard line to read...more like 11a even once I knew where to go...)

Dan Godshall Jul 2, 2007
Jesse Morehouse
Jesse Morehouse   CO
I thought this was a good solid route for the grade (10d). Definitely follow the moves, not the bolts or it could be harder. Jun 14, 2008
Kevin Neilson
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
I was just short of being able to clip the anchors from the bolt line, and the last move to get to the anchors seemed much too thin to be 5.10. I ended up going somewhat to the right and then traversing back left to the anchors, clipping from above. This is a nice route, but seems hard for a 10. Sep 1, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
As of early September 2012, this route is missing the fifth bolt hanger, and the anchor setup needs one quicklink on each bolt/hanger. The way it is now with a single carabiner on each cold shut will twist the #!*&% out of your rope. If you don't have quicklinks, rappel the route instead of lowering to minimize rope curling. Sep 3, 2012
The last moves to the chains (err... I mean oval biners?!) are definitely thin and spicy. Oct 24, 2012
Eliot Augusto
Boulder, CO
Eliot Augusto   Boulder, CO
The fall from the 4th bolt is fine. Just don't blow clipping the 4th bolt to avoid the ponderosa prostate exam. Apr 13, 2015

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