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Routes in Cactus Rose Cliff

Aliens Ate My Penis S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alligator Ed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arizona Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bachar Up Against The Wall And Kauk Him S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Back in Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bald Headed Neocons S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbecueing Traditions S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cactus Rose S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Child's Play S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crack to Black S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
E=mc2 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handsome Alien S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hell Raiser S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hell Razors S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
How Ed Lost His Mind S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
John Wayne Never Wore Boxer Shorts S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Boys With Power Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maiden's Milk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mark Finds Bob Bolting S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Munchkins on Parade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Needle Lies, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Omen, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paper Bondage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raising Arizona S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skinheads Big Night Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sticks and Stone May Break My Bones... T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweat Hog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Take The Skinheads Bowling S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tower of Beta, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vapor Trails S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome To The Machine S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whisper of Immortality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 789 total, 5/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 8, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is approximately 1000 feet right (west) of the cactus Rose Wall proper. As you hike along the trail west of CRW, you will pass approximately 4 scattered routes and then come to a short wall that is facing towards the approximate east. This wall is slightly pinkish and there are 3 routes on the wall. One goes up the left/middle face, two goes up the right hand margin to a small roof, three starts around the right side and goes straight through the roof. 'Aliens Ate My Penis' is route one, the leftmost of the three.

This route is like a tall bolted boulder problem. The opening moves give you a taste of what the entire route is like - slightly overhanging with many small holds to choose from. There are several really good pockets on this route, but it takes patience or luck to get them all. Many of the holds are quite sharp. I actually thought that taking the pain was the biggest crux, given that my fingers are kind of soft right now. All in all, a fun route that gives strenuous, technical climbing.

Either lower off of the last bolt, or top out and scramble over the little fin and down the chimney to the west.

Protection

3 bolts, lower off of 3rd bolt or top out and hike down the deep gully to the west.

Photos

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I added a second anchor to this route. Oct 29, 2005