Type: Sport, TR
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Richard Aschert, Dave Dangle, Darryl Roth.
Page Views: 118 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Oct 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

The climbing to the first bolt could be a little spicy for some, but the holds are decent. The climbing gets pretty fun at the 3rd and 4th bolts which are quite close to each other, there is a rib sidepull which is for sure the crux, but you will find better holds just above.

This route is again a continuous one, like many others on this crag. It is a good intermediate route with fairly good protection.

Location

This route is located on the left end of the 'Cactus Rose Crag' This line is the furthest left route.

Protection

5 bolts - 2 bolt/sling anchor.

Photos

[Van Horn's] guides and [Green's] guide give it 11c/d and 11d. climbed it last night and it is definitely closer to these grades. not sure if [Knapp] might have accidently typo-ed in his guide. good route though, probably be 12b at [Cactus]. Aug 13, 2003
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11d
Certainly not 10d. That must be a typo. It felt all of 11d to me. Continuously difficult ending in a tough set of moves. Sep 3, 2012
Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
I agree. Harder than 10d. Got off of it and was like "wow, some 10s are just crazy hard!" Apr 29, 2013
As I recall, this was the first route at Shelf drilled with a Bosch roto-hammer (by Richard Aschert), thus the name. Jan 27, 2014