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Routes in Cactus Rose Cliff

Aliens Ate My Penis S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alligator Ed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arizona Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bachar Up Against The Wall And Kauk Him S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Back in Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bald Headed Neocons S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Barbecueing Traditions S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cactus Rose S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Child's Play S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crack to Black S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
E=mc2 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Handsome Alien S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hell Raiser S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hell Razors S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
How Ed Lost His Mind S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
John Wayne Never Wore Boxer Shorts S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Boys With Power Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maiden's Milk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mark Finds Bob Bolting S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Munchkins on Parade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Needle Lies, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Omen, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Paper Bondage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pigs in Bondage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Raising Arizona S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skinheads Big Night Out S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sticks and Stone May Break My Bones... T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sweat Hog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Take The Skinheads Bowling S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tower of Beta, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vapor Trails S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome To The Machine S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whisper of Immortality S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 170 total, 2/month
Shared By: Derek Lawrence on Sep 28, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the cliff's namesake.... It is an obvious dihedral on the right face of the cliff. This is listed in the Shelf guide as 4 bolts with no anchor. Currently, it has 6 bolts and ring anchors (1st and 6th look new). Fun, committing climbing (scary clip at 3rd bolt, more runout climbing above) leads up to the 5th bolt. At this point according to the guide, you could traverse left to the anchors on E=mc2. Now a new bolt leads you up over a SHARP bulge to ring anchors. These moves felt harder than 11c, but it could have been the pain affecting my judgment....

Protection

6 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

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Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Agreed. The top has a harder crux than many 12s I have done at Shelf. Fun one though minus the two sharp holds at the top crux. I'd give it classic status.... May 7, 2016
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
 
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
 
VERY good route, but there is no way that the top bulge is 11c (felt like very painful V4 by itself, after resting on bolt). Jun 1, 2015
slim

  5.11c/d
slim    
  5.11c/d
I remember my partner (who was probably in 7th grade at the time) peeling off this from around the 3rd bolt and coming really close to decking. It used to have 4 bolts, and they weren't exactly close together. Sep 28, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11+
I also thought this was pretty stiff for 11c. The span between bolts 2 and 3 is very intimidating and insecure. Getting to the anchors is extremely sharp. Sep 28, 2009